Removing your Heatspreader



There is a lot of prep work to be done, before removing your IHS. You need to first confirm your heatsink can be used with an IHS'less cpu. Because the overall height of the CPU is going to be reduced, most heatsinks that use a retention bracket of some sort will not make proper contact.

Something like the image above will occur, when the heatsink is just above the core but not making contact. This can kill your CPU alone. If you have a bolt-down style heatsink like the Thermaltake Big Typhoon, you're ok. All you have to do is tighten the bolt's down a bit further to make up for the IHS. If you have a heatsink that doesn't use screws or bolts to mount, but uses a bracket instead, you will need to modify it. It's quite simple. All you'll need is some sand paper and a lot of time. If you have a dremel tool or a bench grinder this will be much easier.

Modifying your rentention module

Most heatsinks out there use a retention bracket of some sort to mount. If you unscrew the bracket from the board, you will see there are four pegs on the bottom of it that stick out. You will need to sand these off. You might also have to sand down around the screw hole on the bottom too if there is plastic that sticks out. Basically you want the mounting bracket flat on the bottom. If you're worried about fudging your mounting bracket, or you want to buy an extra, you can always purchase a replacement here for a few dollars. When I modified my Thermalright XP-90 bracket, I used a bench grinder. Here's what mine looked like afterwards.

Pretty much flat. Could be flatter, but I'll fix that another time. For now, it'll work fine. Once you've modified your retention module, you will need to gather the required tools for removing the IHS.

The Necessary Tools

To remove your IHS, you'll need the following.

  • New Razor Blade
  • Electrical Tape
  • Foam (preferably stiffer foam)
  • Thermal Paste
  • Paper towels or rag

You can use pretty much any razor blade, just make sure it's extremely thin, and extremely sharp. The electrical tape is to cover the other side of the blade if you have a double sided one, and or to mark off how far to go into the IHS. Typically you want to go in about 4-6mm. You can judge by the pics of my processor how thick the epoxy is. It's best to be safe and go around 2-3 times with the blade, vs trying to get it done in one trip around. Anyway, the Foam is to set the processor on if needed, to make sure you keep those nine-hundred and thirty nine pins safe!! Thermal paste, self explanatory. Paper towel or a rag to clean off the CPU and or IHS. Now let's pop that IHS!!
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Most Recent Comments

14-09-2005, 08:41:50

It'll help a little, a few degrees at max but is it worth risking damaging the chip for that?Quote

14-09-2005, 09:30:31

Originally Posted by name='Rockindaveuk'
It'll help a little, a few degrees at max but is it worth risking damaging the chip for that?
Yes. .

You can get shigsy to do it - he's coordinated.Quote

14-09-2005, 10:02:54

Lol, i would rather upgrade my cooling than remove the IHS, the amount you will gain varies from chip to chip, i have seen some with really poor IHS contact where they gain 5-10C, others have fairly good contact and you only gain 2-3C.

If it is worth it is down to you, it's only money after all if you damage it


14-09-2005, 16:37:28

What about remove put decent layer ceramic paste and reseal which is what I want to do but what does one use to reseal anyone know???Quote

14-09-2005, 16:53:50

Not a post to say do or dont do it, however if you do plz take pics...wanna see what a dual core looks like without a IHS.Quote

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