Gigabyte Z77 Overclocking Guide
First Overclock
Published: 26th February 2013 | Source: OC3D | Price: |

Initial 4GHz
As we know from the above that our CPU can handle 3.9GHz perfectly well (as seen from the Turbo mode) then 4GHz isn't much of a stretch. However, it's a great number psychologically, and because it's not something you get as default but have to do manually, then you have performed your first overclock.
To reach these dizzying heights we've simply disabled the Turbo Boost, so that the chip runs either at the low-power state or our overclock, and adjusted the CPU Clock ratio to 40. Yes we know that sounds too easy. It isn't.
We aren't surreptitiously tweaking things behind the scenes, or giving you a "to play the flute simply blow in one end and move your fingers up and down" reduction of a complicated act to an 'as you know' simple statement.
Just turn off Turbo, set to 40. Tada. Or if you're on an alternate CPU to our model, set your CPU Ratio to one higher than the default Turbo speed was. Run OCCT for an hour until you're sure it's all gone well, and then move on to the next step.
4.4GHz and Voltage Increase
For the purposes of brevity we've skipped a couple of steps in our images. What we did was, as our 4GHz overclock proved stable, returned to the BIOS and solely increased the CPU Ratio (multiplier) from 40 to 41. Then saved the BIOS, rebooted to Windows, loaded OCCT and tested for an hour to ensure stability. We continued this process until, at a ratio of 44, the system failed. Returning to the BIOS, we entered the voltage section and solely changed the CPU vCore from 1.13 to 1.18. 0.05v isn't much, but enough to pass OCCT testing.
You might need more, or less. That's the difficulty with overclocking. You should never follow a guide in a "put this number here" way, because all of our components are different. Some of you might have needed more volts to reach a multiplier of 41, and some of you might have reached our 44 ratio still on the default CPU voltage.
Most Recent Comments
very informative mate, i think you done really well in going over the most important stuff for people who are 'new' to overclocking and want somewhere to start from!

4 spinning balls thing=
start
type 'system configuration'
click 'boot' tab at top
tick the box marked 'no GUI boot'
restart.
if you ever want it back, simply untick.
as for the user log in bit.
delete other users and passwords.
there is a work around but i cant remember it off the top of my head as its very late, so just use google. as i remember its in regedit and its something like 'user control password'. anyway dont mess in regedit until you know EXACTLY what to change.
. Now before I ask my questions, let me tell you my specs:i5 3570k
AsRock z77 extreme4
CM Hyper 212 Evo (push-pull fans)
Arctic Cooling MX-4
Patriot Viper 3 DDR3 1600MHz (9 9 9 24) 2x4GB
HIS 7950 IceQ
Seasonic G-650 80+Gold
Seagate 2TB SATA3 7200RPM
NZXT Phantom 410 (2 front intake fans, 1 rear and 1 top exhaust fans)
The AsRock Bios is a bit different, but I tried my best to set everything to be the exact same with Tom's settings except the CPU core voltage. I managed to get 1.080 volt at stock. When I tested at 4.0 GHz with 1.125 volt, OCCT stopped running after 8 minutes. My system didn't crash, temps are still normal I guess (75C max temp, 30C ambient temp) but OCCT just stopped running and said "Error Detected ... ". Is this a common thing with OCCT showing that my CPU needs more voltage? Or is there any other factor?
Right now, I am testing my CPU at 4.0 GHz with 1.150 volt, and OCCT has been running for 12 minutes. My target is 4.2 GHz, so I want to know whether I am doing the right thing.
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Anyone, please help.. I am a complete noob and I have some questions to ask. First of all, I want to say that I find this overclocking guide is very helpful, thanks to Tom
. Now before I ask my questions, let me tell you my specs:i5 3570k AsRock z77 extreme4 CM Hyper 212 Evo (push-pull fans) Arctic Cooling MX-4 Patriot Viper 3 DDR3 1600MHz (9 9 9 24) 2x4GB HIS 7950 IceQ Seasonic G-650 80+Gold Seagate 2TB SATA3 7200RPM NZXT Phantom 410 (2 front intake fans, 1 rear and 1 top exhaust fans) The AsRock Bios is a bit different, but I tried my best to set everything to be the exact same with Tom's settings except the CPU core voltage. I managed to get 1.080 volt at stock. When I tested at 4.0 GHz with 1.125 volt, OCCT stopped running after 8 minutes. My system didn't crash, temps are still normal I guess (75C max temp, 30C ambient temp) but OCCT just stopped running and said "Error Detected ... ". Is this a common thing with OCCT showing that my CPU needs more voltage? Or is there any other factor? Right now, I am testing my CPU at 4.0 GHz with 1.150 volt, and OCCT has been running for 12 minutes. My target is 4.2 GHz, so I want to know whether I am doing the right thing. |
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Anyone, please help.. I am a complete noob and I have some questions to ask. First of all, I want to say that I find this overclocking guide is very helpful, thanks to Tom
. Now before I ask my questions, let me tell you my specs:i5 3570k AsRock z77 extreme4 CM Hyper 212 Evo (push-pull fans) Arctic Cooling MX-4 Patriot Viper 3 DDR3 1600MHz (9 9 9 24) 2x4GB HIS 7950 IceQ Seasonic G-650 80+Gold Seagate 2TB SATA3 7200RPM NZXT Phantom 410 (2 front intake fans, 1 rear and 1 top exhaust fans) The AsRock Bios is a bit different, but I tried my best to set everything to be the exact same with Tom's settings except the CPU core voltage. I managed to get 1.080 volt at stock. When I tested at 4.0 GHz with 1.125 volt, OCCT stopped running after 8 minutes. My system didn't crash, temps are still normal I guess (75C max temp, 30C ambient temp) but OCCT just stopped running and said "Error Detected ... ". Is this a common thing with OCCT showing that my CPU needs more voltage? Or is there any other factor? Right now, I am testing my CPU at 4.0 GHz with 1.150 volt, and OCCT has been running for 12 minutes. My target is 4.2 GHz, so I want to know whether I am doing the right thing. |
OK so Im a total noob to overclocks. A question that maybe could be answered in a general term.
Is there such a thing as a "optimal" middle of the road percentwise overclock (100% OC beeing the max I can get out of it) to both gain a better performance out of my cpu without hurting the lifetime of the chip to much? (Yes I know its gonna depend on the chip so noone really could say- but im after more of a broad ballpark number....)
Just wondering if you think it'll make the cpu last a bit longer?
Many thanks
Ben
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If I disable turbo on the UP4 it wont overclock at all. Messed up indeed but I had to show you how to do it with the board Ive got.
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What voltage would you recommend keeping my 2500K below? Some people say 1.35V, others say 1.4V so it would be nice to have a definitive answer. Cheers!
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do you mean the windows 7 '4 spinning balls that turns into the windows logo' thing or the icon where your name is?
4 spinning balls thing= start type 'system configuration' click 'boot' tab at top tick the box marked 'no GUI boot' restart. if you ever want it back, simply untick. as for the user log in bit. delete other users and passwords. there is a work around but i cant remember it off the top of my head as its very late, so just use google. as i remember its in regedit and its something like 'user control password'. anyway dont mess in regedit until you know EXACTLY what to change. |
At the risk of hijacking the thread, is it possible to have Tom shed light on this.
i7-3770K
Intel DZ77RE-75K Extreme board
Galaxy GTX 680
32 gigs of G.Skill X series 1600
Corsair AX 850 PSU
Corsair H70 Liquid CPU Cooler
Corsair Force GT 240 GB ssd
I tried to follow the guide pretty closely and I was able to adjust the voltages but there did not seem to be options to remove the auto settings and I think the board is just automatically re-adjusting things. I tried moving the multiplier up to 4.2 ghz but when I ran CPUZ it said it was still running at 3.9. I ran OCCT with the voltage at 1.100 and it was fine at stock but I am having trouble figuring out how to move up the multiplier on this board. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.
Anyone dare to take a guess as to what it might be ?
P.s. when i do enable the LLC in the Application it does work.
my rig...
i5 3570k
z77x-d3h
Kuhler h20 620
cm 700w psu
8gb corsair vengence
gigabyte HD 7950
im sitting @ 4.2ghz on 1.2v and my highest temp is 71. its stable
im now opening a beer to celebrate!i think i will leave it at that for the time being. i will perhaps look at a better cooler in the future then push it futher.

Spec:
Asus P8z77 V Premium
I7 3770k
Corsair Dominator platinum 16gb 2400 (2x8)
Corsair Ax1200i
Corsair H100i Sp120 performance push/pull
Samsung 840pro 256gb
I'm not pushing that x6 any further because I an getting my 3570k soon anyway so there is no need.
So anyway. Whats the highest voltage I can put a 3570k to to not damage it significantly. And what clocks can I be >>expecting<< at said voltage. Will be using an AXi PSU and z77 Maximus V Forumla on it so I expect that should give good power to the CPU.
-----------------------------------------------------
I also wanted to ask if ttl could make an overclocking guide on a watercooled GPU. Preferably a 7970 because they overclock well. What is the max voltage on that without doing any damage? (Temps ignored).
Thanks!
tom that was very useful you changed a lot less bits in bios then another guide I read
"I DON'T DO READING"
First they all, forgive my English, is not very good..
I found the guide very helpful, great work Tom. Am a noob in OC, new in the forum, and this morning i made my first CPU OC! My target is 4.2 or 4.3 Ghz because my heatsink is not very good, but I think can handle that OC, until I get my hands into something more decent, in this moment, imports here are complicated :S. My rig is:
i7-3770k
ASUS Maximus V Formula
Kingston 4x2GB 1333 9-9-9-24
ASUS GTX 680 DCU2
Heatsink don't know the name, a friend gave it to me, it's like a CollerMaster Hyper TX3, small but works..
PSU Thermaltake TR2 RX 850w
Windows 7 ultimate 64 bits Update
Bios Update
I have two problems: a) the vcore it's not stable, i have sametimes vdroop (-0.010v), sametimes overvoltage (+0.015v) right now I have a setting of 4.2ghz 1.140v, but when I check on CPU-Z, OCCT or ASUS AI Suite II, Vcore is 1.155v and makes small changes, like 1.144v, 1.150v, 1.158v when stress the system (this happen with 1.140, 1.170 or 1.200 always, at almost the sames ups and downs), so i go and check the Vcore loadline calibration, the Maximus V Formula has 4 sets:
Regular: high Vdroop
Medium: medium Vdroop
High: low Vdroop
Ultra High: here is where I have the problem of Vdroop and overvoltage
Extreme: just more overvoltage
I have disable C1E, C3/C6, EIST.. don't know where could be the problem.
b) temperature readings, I start using OCCT, and the idle temperatures call my attention, were very high, 25 degrees above ambient (ambient temperature read from a very accurate mercury thermometer), check in AI Suite II and temp was 10°C above ambient, download RealTemp and is the same as AI Suite II, so check in the bios and was 10°C above ambient.. I am having a problem with OCCT? Can I trust on RealTemp?
Thanks for the help and again, forgive my English LOL..
System specs:
Z77MX-UD3h
2600k
H80i
Kingston Hyper X 4x4gb 1600 9 9 9 27
Samsung 840 Pro
GTX 670 FTW
Took your guide as a fantastic setup to delve into my sabertooth Z77 board and incorporate as close as I could to match your settings.
I have managed to tweak my i5 3570k to 4.5ghz and maintain it at 1.18volts. Originally I thought I had bummed out in the cpu lottery contest, but now I beg to differ. I had a general idea of overclocking before, but could not surpass 4.4 without pumping a stupidly high voltage (1.47Volts iirc). Personally I'm happy with the result and don't want to push it more. But seriously, superb walkthrough and good luck to the rest of you with our OCing.
As I write this my prime95 has been running flat out for 2hours. Will let it keep going while I'm at work and hopefully I can get home to see it still rocking strong. Looking at RealTemp it was currently at 68C. (watercooled)
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Whats the highest voltage I can put a 3570k to to not damage it significantly. And what clocks can I be >>expecting<< at said voltage. Will be using an AXi PSU and z77 Maximus V Forumla on it so I expect that should give good power to the CPU.
----------------------------------------------------- I also wanted to ask if ttl could make an overclocking guide on a watercooled GPU. Preferably a 7970 because they overclock well. What is the max voltage on that without doing any damage? (Temps ignored). Thanks! |
Clocks will depend on the silicon lottery but I'd expect 4.5GHz and higher typically.
The heat issue is related to the chip design as well as the amount of cooling you have. After a certain voltage (1.35v+) the chip can't rid itself of enough heat to keep it cool.
For a AMD 7950/7970 under water I'd look at 1.2v - 1.3v on the core.
Not really true. Energy consumption is decreasing with each generation of tech so you need less and less as time moves on.
I'm trying to under voltage my new rig but my mobo is hell bent on oc everything.
any ideas on what i should and shouldn't be tinckering with?
cheers
i i have set the cpu voltage to 1.1v
however the noew turbo speed is 3.7ghzm i've also changed the load calibration to extreme.
However the uefi bios has a 'ez' mode, which guves 3 options, low power, normal powr ans 'asus' optimal.
does it matter which of these i choose?
and i have one core that reads 1.5c when loaded
cheers
Thanks for the nice overclocking guide but a few questions specially to my rig remained. So first i mention my rig:
I7-2600K @stock on auto 1.284v cooled with an H80i
G1 Killer Sniper 3 Z77 Bios F8J( Newest available
8 GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 1600 MHZ CL9
Gigabyte Gtx 670 OC
Samsung Pro 128 GB
So i would like to make an oc try, so first i have to detect the minimum voltage the cpu can handle to run, as i said 1.284 is auto in which steps do you suggest starting with?
Isnt a bit too much 1.28v for stock?
I would be very if you have suggestions how to start.
Thanks
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Hi Community this is my first postage here on the overclock3d forum
Thanks for the nice overclocking guide but a few questions specially to my rig remained. So first i mention my rig: I7-2600K @stock on auto 1.284v cooled with an H80i G1 Killer Sniper 3 Z77 Bios F8J( Newest available 8 GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 1600 MHZ CL9 Gigabyte Gtx 670 OC Samsung Pro 128 GB So i would like to make an oc try, so first i have to detect the minimum voltage the cpu can handle to run, as i said 1.284 is auto in which steps do you suggest starting with? Isnt a bit too much 1.28v for stock? I would be very if you have suggestions how to start. Thanks |
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Hi Community this is my first postage here on the overclock3d forum
Thanks for the nice overclocking guide but a few questions specially to my rig remained. So first i mention my rig: I7-2600K @stock on auto 1.284v cooled with an H80i G1 Killer Sniper 3 Z77 Bios F8J( Newest available 8 GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 1600 MHZ CL9 Gigabyte Gtx 670 OC Samsung Pro 128 GB So i would like to make an oc try, so first i have to detect the minimum voltage the cpu can handle to run, as i said 1.284 is auto in which steps do you suggest starting with? Isnt a bit too much 1.28v for stock? I would be very if you have suggestions how to start. Thanks |
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Hello from Argentina!!
First they all, forgive my English, is not very good.. I found the guide very helpful, great work Tom. Am a noob in OC, new in the forum, and this morning i made my first CPU OC! My target is 4.2 or 4.3 Ghz because my heatsink is not very good, but I think can handle that OC, until I get my hands into something more decent, in this moment, imports here are complicated :S. My rig is: i7-3770k ASUS Maximus V Formula Kingston 4x2GB 1333 9-9-9-24 ASUS GTX 680 DCU2 Heatsink don't know the name, a friend gave it to me, it's like a CollerMaster Hyper TX3, small but works.. PSU Thermaltake TR2 RX 850w Windows 7 ultimate 64 bits Update Bios Update I have two problems: a) the vcore it's not stable, i have sametimes vdroop (-0.010v), sametimes overvoltage (+0.015v) right now I have a setting of 4.2ghz 1.140v, but when I check on CPU-Z, OCCT or ASUS AI Suite II, Vcore is 1.155v and makes small changes, like 1.144v, 1.150v, 1.158v when stress the system (this happen with 1.140, 1.170 or 1.200 always, at almost the sames ups and downs), so i go and check the Vcore loadline calibration, the Maximus V Formula has 4 sets: Regular: high Vdroop Medium: medium Vdroop High: low Vdroop Ultra High: here is where I have the problem of Vdroop and overvoltage Extreme: just more overvoltage I have disable C1E, C3/C6, EIST.. don't know where could be the problem. b) temperature readings, I start using OCCT, and the idle temperatures call my attention, were very high, 25 degrees above ambient (ambient temperature read from a very accurate mercury thermometer), check in AI Suite II and temp was 10°C above ambient, download RealTemp and is the same as AI Suite II, so check in the bios and was 10°C above ambient.. I am having a problem with OCCT? Can I trust on RealTemp? Thanks for the help and again, forgive my English LOL.. |
Great Video & written review as always. I watched & read them both twice. Whenever i have overclocked before on Intel (Only moved from the reds about six months ago) I have always let Mobo adjust the voltages on auto due to not being confident enough for manual adjustments. I decided to the same again this time just so I could get an idea of how the voltages went up or down during the OCCT tests. For this reason I left one minute idle time at the start of the tests and the five minute after. That apart I followed Tom's settings and ran it for thirty mins. My rig componemts are Asrock X79 extreme11, I7 3930K, GTX590's x 2 in quad SLI, Corsair Vengeance 1600Mhz 32gb (8x4Gb), Kingston Hyper X 120Gb SSD's x2 (Raid0), CPU & GPU's are custom W/Cooled in Caselabs STH10 on two separate loops. Have not put PSU, HDD & other components as I did not think they are relevent. Right, I overclocked my CPU using Asrocks AXTU app. To 4.2Ghz as a starting point (Normally I run it @ 4.4Ghz.) by changing the multiplier to 44 and everything else on auto apart from the C states of which I disabled all of them. With the volts on "Auto" which is 1.245 I started OCCT, for the first minute voltages varied from 1.239 to 1.256. After the first minute the voltage dropped to between 1.18 & 1.19 all the way through the test this was the only voltage changes. After 25 mins the 5 min "Idle time" kicks in, as soon as this happened the voltage went back up to between 1.239 & 1.265. I am not sure what to make of these results but, if my understanding is correct it vindicates what the Video & written review are saying about the preset voltage on my motherboard is set too high???? I have added some screenshots and would like to hear what some of you expert experienced guys think. Thanks for reading & I look forward to reading what you guys have to say.
http://forum.overclock3d.net/attachm...1&d=1362261414
http://forum.overclock3d.net/attachm...1&d=1362261414
http://forum.overclock3d.net/attachm...1&d=1362261414
http://forum.overclock3d.net/attachm...1&d=1362261414
I actually watched this guide in full, then overclocked using Tom's methods on my ASUS P8Z68-V Pro with 2500k and the settings translate across nicely from the Gigabyte board Tom used.
Interestingly, this is NOT the way I usually overclock, I'm an offsetter myself, plus I preserve all the power states etc. so my clock speeds are dynamic. With Tom's method I managed the exact same level of overclock & stabiliy pretty easily. I had the same CPU vCore reported under OCCT Linkpack load, though of course at idle my overclock settles down to 1600mhz on the CPU with around 1v on the CPU vCore. The joy of power states lol.
I could push a fair bit further on my overclock as I have excellent water cooling. However, I did NOT win the silicon lottery by a long margin with my CPU, sadly my Core #3 is pretty damn weak compared to the others, so I need a higher vCore than I'd like for that weaker core. Still, 4.6ghz for a 24/7 OC isn't to be sniffed at, and it gives me a healthy boost in many CPU demanding tasks.
It used to be that the first thing you disabled when overclocking on socket 775 was the power save states. With my Q6600 @ 3.6 I had to do this to get any stability. With Sandy Bridge I noticed that keeping all the power stuff enabled hasn't impacted my peek stable clocks at all, which is pretty cool. Erm, quite literally

Oh, the undervolt at stock to get your base line is a great way to start. I thought I was the only person doing that! People used to think I was daft, but my OC's worked & lasted better than theirs *smug* As for the "Auto" overclockers out there, I think you REALLY showed how badly motherboards get the real voltage requirements wrong in that mode - quite shockingly so.
Really useful guide that has directly given people additional FREE performance, which can't be bad!

Scoob.
If i try to use more it just says "Finished" and doesn´t start and when i´m running it at 8.3GB the OS complains that it´s to title free memory (still have 5GB+ och free memory!) and sometimes I get "Out of memory" and if i don´t shut down OCCT the system just freezes (not even blue screen)The other spec:s are Gigabyte GA-P55-USB3
I5 750 @ stock (was running oc @ 3.2GHz but loaded optimized defaults due to this problem)
16 GB 1600MHz corsair vengeance 9-9-9-24 4x4GB (now at 1333 due to "opt defaults")
I know it´s not Z77 but still.
Guess that´s the parts that matter, does anyone have any idea on what it might be?
Could it be that i need to increase the V to the memory controller on the CPU since I´m running four dims?
Edit: In prime95 one of the cores will at random (or so it seems) fail to initialize FFT code
Edit 2: Think i found the problem, my audio "driver/program" when i quit it I could use "90%" of RAM whiteout any "Blue screen" stuff, very strange.
i watched the video completly so im starting with 1.245v @stock
and make the first step to 1.200 but is 30 min occt really enough to go then again further down ? if 1.200v is stable maybe to 1.170 or so or is it better to let occt running a lot more time wise?
I7-2600K @stock on auto 1.245v cooled with an H80i
G1 Killer Sniper 3 Z77 Bios F8J( Newest available)
8 GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 1600 MHZ CL9 no XMP
Gigabyte Gtx 670 OC
Samsung Pro 128 GB
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i watched the video completly so im starting with 1.245v @stock
and make the first step to 1.200 but is 30 min occt really enough to go then again further down ? if 1.200v is stable maybe to 1.170 or so or is it better to let occt running a lot more time wise? |
plenty. once you have established the lowest voltage without crashing, BSOD
or windows loading failure, revert to last 30min stability voltage and that would
be your undervolt for stock. then you can do a 24hr stability test to verify
that is the lowest and safest voltage to use. even after 9months you might find
that your temps are higher or your get random crashes. now you know what to
do. decrease the multiplier, increase the voltage or maintanence the cooling
solution.
the idea is for you to find that best case scenario in voltage and multiplier
that offers stability. and instead of big swing numbers, trying the stepped
method gets you familiar to the BIOS, how to react to errors, what to look
for in an overclock. look at how the CPU generates heat with each voltage
increase. once you find you are in the 40+ multiplier, the temperatures start
to increase in larger amounts to the voltage increased. from that you start
to understand the thermal capabilities of how overclocking a CPU holds.
if you find the temps are higher than you like, you have options. fine tune
your overclock, increase the cooling solution, reduce to overclock to a temp
suitable for your environment.
Scoob.
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hi, i hav got to 4.5ghz on my 3770k at 1.130v in the bios but in cpu-z the voltage is 1.160 on load, is this normal?
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you can let it go for a longer stabilty trial, but in the sake of time, 30min is
plenty. once you have established the lowest voltage without crashing, BSOD or windows loading failure, revert to last 30min stability voltage and that would be your undervolt for stock. then you can do a 24hr stability test to verify that is the lowest and safest voltage to use. even after 9months you might find that your temps are higher or your get random crashes. now you know what to do. decrease the multiplier, increase the voltage or maintanence the cooling solution. the idea is for you to find that best case scenario in voltage and multiplier that offers stability. and instead of big swing numbers, trying the stepped method gets you familiar to the BIOS, how to react to errors, what to look for in an overclock. look at how the CPU generates heat with each voltage increase. once you find you are in the 40+ multiplier, the temperatures start to increase in larger amounts to the voltage increased. from that you start to understand the thermal capabilities of how overclocking a CPU holds. if you find the temps are higher than you like, you have options. fine tune your overclock, increase the cooling solution, reduce to overclock to a temp suitable for your environment. |
I want to overclock.
Then say 1.170v is stable i can put 1.200v for 4.0 ghz and so on..... then say i will try 1.200v for 4.2 ghz which is 30min stable and then make the 24/7 stability test is this a good way?

Edit:
i hav just stopped occt after 8 min whn i noticed that my cpu vcore dropped to 0.32v, vin1 to 0.01v and +3.3v to 0.03v is this a fault with occt or my system?
i hav a 1200i psu..
I'm having some boot issues after I raiser my multiplier to 48, I think.
My system keeps looping: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5vBCFMkQ7c
Does anybody know a fix for this?

My guess is that your OC is unstable - but you knew that lol - and the PC cannot even get into the BIOS. Remember, when you are sat in your BIOS your CPU is loaded (a little) and will run at its max clock speed. Sat in the BIOS for extended periods I could see my temps go up, not to gaming levels, but not far off.
Might be something else, but I don't know exactly what you've changed.
Best of luck.
Scoob.
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Try a CMOS reset, pop the battery or short the pins, depending on the method for your motherboard. It will reset EVERYTHING so you'll have to spend a little time reconfiguring stuff like drives, ram etc. possibly.
My guess is that your OC is unstable - but you knew that lol - and the PC cannot even get into the BIOS. Remember, when you are sat in your BIOS your CPU is loaded (a little) and will run at its max clock speed. Sat in the BIOS for extended periods I could see my temps go up, not to gaming levels, but not far off. Might be something else, but I don't know exactly what you've changed. Best of luck. Scoob. |
Thank you for your answer. I'll try popping out the battery; hope it helps. Have done that with a few issues before - all worked out perfectly.
Yeah, it's because I raised to multiplier to 48 with a vcore of 1.290. My chip wasn't able to run that.

Again, thank you. Have a nice Sunday!
--
NickHalden
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Hello,
I'm having some boot issues after I raiser my multiplier to 48, I think. Does anybody know a fix for this? |
you are taking way to big of swings to this process. small incrimental steps
are necessary for proper overclocking.
also, if issues do arise, a hardware spec of build would help a whole lot, too..
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once you recover from the "boot loop" error. you need to re-watch the video.
you are taking way to big of swings to this process. small incrimental steps are necessary for proper overclocking. also, if issues do arise, a hardware spec of build would help a whole lot, too.. |
Wanted to edit my first post and put my specs, but the post was waiting to get accepted by the admin(s).
Specs:
2500K
Corsair H80
Corsair AX850
EVGA GTX 680 SC
Corsair Vengeance 16GB @ 1600MHz
Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3, rev. 1.3, BIOS F11
Guys,
I was trying a overclock of 4.5GHz, vcore set to 1.290. Temps and vcore were:
http://i.imgur.com/mHjiJGq.jpg
But after ~8 min. my system went:
http://i.imgur.com/CVLhxd9.jpg
i post this again maybe they are more people who can help me out
i watched the video completly so im starting with 1.245v @stock
and make the first step to 1.200 but is 30 min occt really enough to go then again further down ? if 1.200v is stable maybe to 1.170 or so or is it better to let occt running a lot more time wise? and then say 1.150 will be last stable (tested 30min) bump up to 1.200v for 4.0 ghz?
what are your thoughts please let me know ^^
and then e.g test 1.200v with 4.2 ghz 24 hrs`? ^^
I7-2600K @stock on auto 1.245v cooled with an H80i
G1 Killer Sniper 3 Z77 Bios F8J( Newest available)
8 GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 1600 MHZ CL9 no XMP
Gigabyte Gtx 670 OC
Samsung Pro 128 GB
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Good evening to all
i post this again maybe they are more people who can help me out i watched the video completly so im starting with 1.245v @stock and make the first step to 1.200 but is 30 min occt really enough to go then again further down ? if 1.200v is stable maybe to 1.170 or so or is it better to let occt running a lot more time wise? and then say 1.150 will be last stable (tested 30min) bump up to 1.200v for 4.0 ghz? what are your thoughts please let me know ^^ and then e.g test 1.200v with 4.2 ghz 24 hrs`? ^^ I7-2600K @stock on auto 1.245v cooled with an H80i G1 Killer Sniper 3 Z77 Bios F8J( Newest available) 8 GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 1600 MHZ CL9 no XMP Gigabyte Gtx 670 OC Samsung Pro 128 GB http://forum.overclock3d.net/images/...tons/quote.gif |
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Guys,
I was trying a overclock of 4.5GHz, vcore set to 1.290. Temps and vcore were: http://i.imgur.com/mHjiJGq.jpg But after ~8 min. my system went: http://i.imgur.com/CVLhxd9.jpg |
of voltage in the BIOS.
here is a sandy bridge BSOD code list:
0x0A = add QPI/VTT voltage
0x1E = add more vcore
0x3B = add more vcore
0xD1 = add QPI/VTT voltage
“0x9C = QPI/VTT most likely, but increasing vcore has helped in some instances”
0x50 = RAM timings/Frequency add DDR3 voltage or add QPI/VTT
0x101 = add more vcore
0X109 = add DDR3 voltage
0x124 = add/remove vcore or QPI/VTT voltage (usually Vcore, once it was QPI/VTT)
Can someone please explain me Internal PLL Overvoltage and CPU Current Capability. What are those settings for and what options should I use?
Thx
Asus P8Z68-V Pro Gen3 & 2600k
would be very happy if You can help me out!
Greets
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Just ignore them use Auto also You can turn internal ppl overvoltage on enabled to get more out of your System i think. I have a question what will tinytomlogan say with this 23:20-24 min i dont understand what he wants to say with this like is the way from 1.050 to 1.1 to big but why he makes the step then?
would be very happy if You can help me out! Greets |
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I have a question what will tinytomlogan say with this 23:20-24 min i dont understand what he wants to say with this like is the way from 1.050 to 1.1 to big but why he makes the step then?
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be a stable voltage to run. but to have the student start @ 1.10v and work
down. he already knew his chip could stay stable @ 1.050v.
so basically, keep decreasing voltage until unstable. now you have found the
least amount of voltage to achive running stock multiplier.
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Hi guys, I have few questions, hope you can help me...
Can someone please explain me Internal PLL Overvoltage and CPU Current Capability. What are those settings for and what options should I use? Thx Asus P8Z68-V Pro Gen3 & 2600k |
Internal PLL and CPU PLL voltages are completely different settings neither of which you need to worry about unless you are getting into quite advanced overclocking.
The next bit is taken from own experience (I am not an electronic engineer and Intel keeps these things somewhat secret):
CPU PLL is the voltage which is required for a CPU to manage its own clock speed, specifically the Bclk speed. A higher Bclk speed will eventually require a slightly higher CPU PLL to regulate it.
Since overclocking is almost entirely done on the multiplier on z77/p68 it has no requirement to be adjusted. I'd advise that you set it to the increment just under auto (1.75v for me), since all auto voltages are really overvolted at stock. Once you have finalised your overclock you can reduce the CPU PLL even further to reduce core temperatures slightly. For an everyday OC somewhere between 1.5-1.7v is typical.
The internal PLL is what is used to regulate other timings - I believe in relation to Input/Output elements. There is a chance that overclocking can saturate the Internal PLL under certain conditions (very high clock frequencies) and enabling overvoltage can alleviate this but for most people just leaving it disabled is fine. If nothing else is working then give it a try but it probably won't make a difference and it often can interrupt waking from sleep states. I personally have it disabled and my everyday clock is 4.6GHz.
CPU current capability is related to to total amount of watts drawn by the CPU.
Watts= Volts x Current.
Raising it to 110% or 120% can be beneficial in allowing the CPU to draw more power. Beyond about 130% you risk degrading or damaging the CPU.
EDIT: You are using SB and I'm on IB so the numbers will be ever-so slightly higher for you.
30 min. overclock: http://i.imgur.com/DqM201g.jpg
Idle: http://i.imgur.com/Bsin3lS.jpg
How can I fix that? If you guys need picture(s) of my BIOS settings, let me know.
Thanks.
--
Nick Halden
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For some reason, my voltage (1.365 in BIOS) is so high at idle.
30 min. overclock: http://i.imgur.com/DqM201g.jpg Idle: http://i.imgur.com/Bsin3lS.jpg How can I fix that? If you guys need picture(s) of my BIOS settings, let me know. Thanks. -- Nick Halden |
Yes we need ALL details as I stated in the video, including a full hardware spec list......

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Yes we need ALL details as I stated in the video, including a full hardware spec list......
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Specs:
2500K
Corsair AX850
Corsair H80, standard fans, push/pull
Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3, rev. 1.3, BIOS F11
Corsair Vengeance 16GB @ 1600MHz, 9-9-9-24-CMDr-1 (manually set, as Tom told us in his video)
Oh, dear Tom... trust me, I did watch the whole video, so I know you told us to post specs. Which I did a few posts ago, but it doesn't really matter. It's much easier for you guys to have both pictures of BIOS and specs, so that's the way I'm going to do it now.

Thank you all for being so friendly and helpful.
--
Nick
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PLL stands for Phase-Locked Loop. A PLL is used for timings just like in a digital clock. How does a clock know how long a second lasts? It measures time based on the speed of a precisely controlled flow of electricity. A computer works in the same way - it's needs to know how long a MHz is.
Internal PLL and CPU PLL voltages are completely different settings neither of which you need to worry about unless you are getting into quite advanced overclocking. The next bit is taken from own experience (I am not an electronic engineer and Intel keeps these things somewhat secret): CPU PLL is the voltage which is required for a CPU to manage its own clock speed, specifically the Bclk speed. A higher Bclk speed will eventually require a slightly higher CPU PLL to regulate it. Since overclocking is almost entirely done on the multiplier on z77/p68 it has no requirement to be adjusted. I'd advise that you set it to the increment just under auto (1.75v for me), since all auto voltages are really overvolted at stock. Once you have finalised your overclock you can reduce the CPU PLL even further to reduce core temperatures slightly. For an everyday OC somewhere between 1.5-1.7v is typical. The internal PLL is what is used to regulate other timings - I believe in relation to Input/Output elements. There is a chance that overclocking can saturate the Internal PLL under certain conditions (very high clock frequencies) and enabling overvoltage can alleviate this but for most people just leaving it disabled is fine. If nothing else is working then give it a try but it probably won't make a difference and it often can interrupt waking from sleep states. I personally have it disabled and my everyday clock is 4.6GHz. CPU current capability is related to to total amount of watts drawn by the CPU. Watts= Volts x Current. Raising it to 110% or 120% can be beneficial in allowing the CPU to draw more power. Beyond about 130% you risk degrading or damaging the CPU. EDIT: You are using SB and I'm on IB so the numbers will be ever-so slightly higher for you. |
This is how it works for me:
4300 mhz - 1.200v - Internal PLL Enabled - CPU CC 110% - stable
or
4300 mhz - 1.235v - Internal PLL Disabled or Auto - CPU CC 100% - stable
Looks like these two options make a quite nice difference for my stable oc. What do you recommend for 24/7, what option is more safe to use? More voltage for cpu or...?
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This is how it works for me:
4300 mhz - 1.200v - Internal PLL Enabled - CPU CC 110% - stable or 4300 mhz - 1.235v - Internal PLL Disabled or Auto - CPU CC 100% - stable Looks like these two options make a quite nice difference for my stable oc. What do you recommend for 24/7, what option is more safe to use? More voltage for cpu or...? |
They are both safe.I'm surprised you need Internal PLL enabled at all for that clock though.
Greets
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Thank You for the answers they helped me a lot! So I tested 1,200 1,17 1,15 1,13 all were stable occt Run 35 minutes now im going to 1,11 v say if It failed the Run of occt i go for say 1.12 but how much time i have to let occt Run to really know this is stable? And this refers for the oc to 4 GHz aswell how much time i have to Run occt that i know this is 100 percent stable. It would be nice if You can help me System and other Post You can find in last pages. Really thanks to the nice community.
Greets |
G1 Killer Sniper 3 Z77 Bios F8J( Newest available
8 GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 1600 MHZ CL9
Gigabyte Gtx 670 OC
Samsung Pro 128 GB
Yeah you are right sry but at the moment i have only the s3 for usage but here we go.
Update 1.1 v is also stable now going to 1.09v
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Rather than expecting other to look for your specs dont you think it would be better for you to do it and just copy and paste them into your post above....?
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Update bsod with 1,070 and also 1,080 now trying 1,090 once again how much time do you suggest running occt now ;-)
Update 1,090 v error from occt how is this possible i ran 45 minutes and no error before going down to 1,070v
Occt stopped after 6 minutes with error messages now going to 1,100v
Would be very nice if You could help me ;-)
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The difference between the two is marginal. You just trade a tiny bit of volts for a few more amps. Not really important either way at 4.3GHz
They are both safe.I'm surprised you need Internal PLL enabled at all for that clock though. |
Just found sweet spot for myself... 4.5ghz 1.275v in offset mode. Occt runs stable for about 8 hours, I didn't go further.
Big thanks for help
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In the lga 1155 video, when you turn the voltage down, and test it, how will you know if it is stable when you run occt for an hour, what will indicate it not being stable, and if it isnt stable should i add more voltage?
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running OCCT the test will stop and you can view the graphs for the fault.
or the system will lock-up and thats a fail, or the BSOD (Blue Screen Of Death)
if the test fails or system lock-up or BSOD, try increasing the voltage to the
next level (+.005v) and re-run. small increments and you'll find the right
voltage. it can be long and tedious, but you findout a lot of characteristics
of your processor and how it reacts to certain changes.
G1 Killer Sniper 3 Z77 Bios F8J( Newest available
8 GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 1600 MHZ CL9
Gigabyte Gtx 670 OC
Samsung Pro 128 GB
Update bsod with 1,070 and also 1,080 now trying 1,090 once again how much time do you suggest running occt now ;-)
Update 1,090 v error from occt how is this possible i ran 45 minutes and no error before going down to 1,070v
Occt stopped after 6 minutes with error messages now going to 1,100v
Would be very nice if You could help me ;-)
1.100v run 12 hrs no issues now testing 4Ghz 1,160 v and if stable 30 min i go for my aim 4.2 GHz with same voltage how much time do you think is Ok 12 hrs occt? ;-)
Here is a pic cpu z and occt why Bus 99,8 not 100 mhz this confuses me ;-)
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I7-2600K @stock on 1.245v cooled with an H80i
G1 Killer Sniper 3 Z77 Bios F8J( Newest available 8 GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 1600 MHZ CL9 Gigabyte Gtx 670 OC Samsung Pro 128 GB Update bsod with 1,070 and also 1,080 now trying 1,090 once again how much time do you suggest running occt now ;-) Update 1,090 v error from occt how is this possible i ran 45 minutes and no error before going down to 1,070v Occt stopped after 6 minutes with error messages now going to 1,100v Would be very nice if You could help me ;-) 1.100v run 12 hrs no issues now testing 4Ghz 1,160 v and if stable 30 min i go for my aim 4.2 GHz with same voltage how much time do you think is Ok 12 hrs occt? ;-) |
As a guideline you'll want to use a program like OCCT, Prime95, Intel Burn Test for an extended period. Some say overnight (8+ hours) some say 12 hours but that will not uncover errors that would appear beyond that however they may never affect you depending on the strain you put your system under in the future.
For rock solid stability you'd have to run several programs back to back for 24-48hrs each and then run demanding games/applications to see if they get any errors either. You would be talking a week or so of testing.
Our advice generally would be to run a stress test for 12-24 hours and then just use your computer normally after that. If you get any strange things happening (errors, crashes, or pop ups) or even simple things like being kicked out of an online game (has happened to me when I was slightly undervolted in BF3) then the first thing I would suggest is to add a fraction more to the vcore and try again.
That's normal, there is a tiny amount of play in all of this. A MHz here or there at the clock speed is nothing to worry about.
I uploaded a pic above refering to the Bus speed is this Ok Bus speed 99,8? In Bios is set on auto
In TTL video There is not such a thing to See therefore im writting it;-)
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Thank you for your nice answer ;-)
I uploaded a pic above refering to the Bus speed is this Ok Bus speed 99,8? In Bios is set on auto In TTL video There is not such a thing to See therefore im writting it;-) |
There are some motherboards which cheat by having the auto setting of the bclk a touch higher like 101 and then claim that their motherboards are better performers than others when in fact they've put a 1% overclock on the CPU that way.
1,200 v 4,2 GHz
I get an error from occt with 1,180 @5 minutes i increased to 1.200 and testing ;-)
Update how is this possible stock 1,100v 12 hrs stable then going up to 4Ghz 1.160 v 35 min occt stable so to say
than 1.160 v 1,180 1,200 fails for 4,2 GHz
Now testing 1,225 for 4,2
Looks that i get a Bad cpu or!? ;-)
Tom what are your thoughts about this?
Also, what voltage would you recommend keeping my 2500K below? Some people say 1.35V, others say 1.4V so it would be nice to have a definitive answer. Cheers!
I7 3770k
MB Asus P8Z77-V Deluxe
Memory Corsair Dominator Platinum 16gb (4x4 gb) 2400Mhz
Cooler H100 push-pull
Video Asus Matrix HD 7970 Platinum
Be Quiet Dark Power Pro 850W 80Plus Platinum
So my question is, since I have all the MB memory slots occupied beside the normal timings that I have written on the memory sticks do I have to sate the Command Rate(tCMD) to 1 or 2?
Okay, pictures is uploaded and specs is down below.
For some reason, my voltage is so high while idling.

30 min. overclock: http://i.imgur.com/DqM201g.jpg
(old voltage of 1.365)
Idle: http://i.imgur.com/Bsin3lS.jpg
BIOS-settings:
http://i.imgur.com/8cUI6xsh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/jwU5SAjh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/cuYpvMOh.jpg
[imghttp://i.imgur.com/YmxSMrth.jpg[/img]
http://i.imgur.com/ilR12TSh.jpg
turn turbo off
make sure in the windows power option you are in high performance
programs in the running in the background can effect your voltage stream.
have you tried 1.275/1.290 for a 4.5 OC.. 1.345 is a lil high..
The only thing I have done to get this OC is obv. change the turbo multi to 42, vcore to 1.275 and PLL to 1.65v
Everything else is default, C1E and all the other power settings are auto....
-----------------------
EDIT (4096mb, 8cycles)
Turbo 42
vcore - 1.19
PLL - 1.65 (a forum member suggested this, but unsure if i need to - normal is 1.80)
Load Line Calib - Extreme
CPU-z Core Volt - between 1.212 and 1.248
MAX Temp - 74'c
Fan Speed 1506 RPM
Can the temp be brought down anymore ?
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two things? what are you using for a cooling solution?
is that the lowest your 42 vcore can go, stabily? |
Volts - I run vcore from 1.275 down to 1.190 just to see if it would pass IBT which it did.
I know IBT stresses harder than Prime in the way of temps, and is so much faster than 24hrs prime, but can I get under 70c
My 212 Evo is facing rear but I only have a 140mm top exhuast atm, oh and 1x 120mm front intake
about core degradation due to overvolt.
but is there going to be a degradation when undervolting?
I've found on my GPU actually, that a stable undervolt
is no longer stable after a while, and i've head to raise it couple of times
to keep it stable (in my case from 1.006 gradually to 1.032)
i know its a gpu, assuming its the same with cpu regarding undervolting.
finally stable after cmos reset bios update and windows 7 instead of 8 with 1.235v @ 4.2Ghz
is this ok voltage whise for 24/7 usage and also i have all power energy options disabled like tom said in the video is this the best way ?
Would be nice if you answer
C1e Disabled
C3/C6 Disabled
CPU Eist Disabled
My system
I7-2600K 4.2 Ghz 1.235v
G1 Killer Sniper 3 Z77 Bios F7
16 GB Patriot Memory Viper 3 2133 Mhz CL11
Gigabyte Gtx 670 OC
Samsung Pro 128 GB
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hello
about core degradation due to overvolt. but is there going to be a degradation when undervolting? I've found on my GPU actually, that a stable undervolt is no longer stable after a while, and i've head to raise it couple of times to keep it stable (in my case from 1.006 gradually to 1.032) i know its a gpu, assuming its the same with cpu regarding undervolting. |
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Hi there now im running my i7-2600k with same bios settings like TTL
finally stable after cmos reset bios update and windows 7 instead of 8 with 1.235v @ 4.2Ghz is this ok voltage whise for 24/7 usage and also i have all power energy options disabled like tom said in the video is this the best way ? Would be nice if you answer C1e Disabled C3/C6 Disabled CPU Eist Disabled |
My old Q6600 needed those things disabled to remain stable at 3.6ghz, but Sandy B. - or my motherboard - just seem much better at switching the power states so it's not been an issue.
Sometimes it's nice to disable them while you're experimenting, so you can see more constant voltages as the chip isn't clocking down, but once you're there I'd try re-enabling it. I'm under water, so my PC is near silent regardless of what it's doing, but an air cooled system would potentially run quieter, if the fans are linked to temps.
Scoob.
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I generally leave all the power state thingies enabled as it made no difference to my maximum stable OC. Plus I benefit from the machine idling properly while doing simple desktop stuff. I just find it satisfying that the machine is being efficient like that when the power isn't needed.
My old Q6600 needed those things disabled to remain stable at 3.6ghz, but Sandy B. - or my motherboard - just seem much better at switching the power states so it's not been an issue. Sometimes it's nice to disable them while you're experimenting, so you can see more constant voltages as the chip isn't clocking down, but once you're there I'd try re-enabling it. I'm under water, so my PC is near silent regardless of what it's doing, but an air cooled system would potentially run quieter, if the fans are linked to temps. Scoob. |
I try to enable C1E where possible. Works fine on my 3570K @ 4.6GHz on a fixed OC. For beginners though I think it's easier to keep things black and white.Not sure if Gigabyte boards have offset voltage options, but, one thing you didn't touch on was OCing using an offset and how to go about correctly setting an offset voltage. In my case through trial and error, I found an OC with a 48x and an offset of +.040v to maintain stability with voltage fluctuating between 1.37v -1.38v while running OCCT per your guide. Voltage will drop to a cozy 1.040 with no load. This is with the specs in my sig.
My understanding is that the offset is determined using Vcore and your VID. Just not sure I totally get it.
I guess my question is how to do you properly set an offset? Maybe another tutorial vid? Thnx!!!
i7 3570k @ 4Ghz (currently)
ASUS Maximus V Formula
16 gigs of corsair vengence ram 9-9-9-24 Cmd 2
Cool Master Silent Pro 1200 Watts
Silvestone Raven rv02b-ew
Corsair H80i
Bios Setup:
C3/C9/C1E Disabled
EIST Disabled
Loadline: Extreme
Thermal Monitor: Disabled
Turbo: Disabled (well greyed out)
CPU Voltage: 1.100v
Dram Voltage: 1.5v
Using the X.M.P Profile for my ram.
So I ran in to an interesting problem, I did a stress test on stock for awhile, and anything seemed fine. Upped the core ratio to 40, everything was going good, then suddenly OCCT's cpu usage drops, and then SPIKES back up to 100%. The temperature on my core 1 goes from 55 degrees to suddenly 70 and stays there. My core 4 temperature drops to about 35 and doesn't change.
I loaded up Corsair Link 2 to see what the issue was (and I loaded up hwmonitor for an additional comparison, and the temp was bouncing around 57ish average for all my cores.
So did OCCT s**t the bed?
It is a common issue on Asus boards. Also sometimes all of the readings, including voltages, go to zero then back to normal.
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I have a similar issue with my board (Asus P8Z77-V). Two of my core temperatures give odd reading, sometimes one is 1.5 and the other is 127. The other two give more accurate readings.
It is a common issue on Asus boards. Also sometimes all of the readings, including voltages, go to zero then back to normal. |
I'll most likely try the newest bios and see if that fixes it. Either way or just run Prime95 with HW Monitor
It is very difficult to fix because AI Suite does not uninstall cleanly. I had the same problem on my p5n32-e sli motherboard, I thought that they may have fixed it by now but they don't accept that it is their problem.
Personally, when benchmarking / stress testing, I run the following tools together with no issues:
Core Temp
CPUz
GPUz x2 (one for each GPU)
Process Explorer
I pop these up on my 2nd monitor and they seem to work fine together.
Note: I did have an issue with an older version of GPUz causing crashes, but newer updates saw that problem go away.
Scoob.






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