XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 WaterCooling Kit Review
www.specialtech.co.uk
Published: 22nd February 2011 | Source: Specialtech | Price: £139.99 |
Introduction
Water cooling kits.... they were once a much avoided option by most in the favour of a custom loop. Times and technologies have moved on and the XSPC kit on test today is worlds away from what was once the easily available "Big Water" tacky kits that flooded eBay just a few years ago. The thing is, technology had moved on everywhere, now we have air cooling heat sinks that easily out-perform water cooling kits from a few years back.
So when speaking to the guys at Specialtech recently and hearing that you can get a 360mm radiator based kit for £139.99 we thought it was about time for us to take a fresh look at what water cooling has to offer. Being compared to the class leading heat sink of today the NH-D14 the bar has been set very high.
Let's take a look at what you get for your £140:
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| Weight: | 5.00 kgs | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Manufacturer Code | RASAKIT-RS360 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Manufacturer | XSPC | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Price: | £ 139.99 , inc VAT 20% | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The only thing you would need on top of this kit is to choose the coolant you wish to use. This is just to give you the option to pick the exact brand and colour fluid you'd like to use in your loop. Anyways enough chit chat lets move straight on to the important bit..... temperature results.
Test Setup
Air Testing
Gigabyte UD3R V2
Intel i7 950
Mushkin Radioactive 2000MHz
Cooler Master 690 II Advanced White Edition
Mushkin 650W PSU
Water Testing
Gigabyte G1 Assassin
Intel i7 950
Corsair Vengance
Cooler Master HAF-X Nvidia
Mushkin 1200w
Testing
For the first test we set our i7-950 overclocked to 200x20 @ 1.25v for a clock speed of 4.0GHz. We allow the system to idle for 10 minutes and then run Prime95 'maximum heat maximum stress' setting for a further 30 minutes.
After 30 minutes we note the temperatures of all cores and the ambient temperature of the room. An average of all cores is taken, then the ambient temperature is removed from this figure and this gives us the delta temperature. Delta is the temperature difference above ambient which is a truer reflection of the heat-sink performance rather than mere maximum figures. Testing in an Igloo or the Sahara would give vastly different maximum temperatures, yet the Delta could be the same.
The second test follows all steps from above but with a 200x21 @ 1.35v for 4.2GHz overclock, the extra voltage in this test allows us to see if the heat-sink can cope when extreme loads and overclocks are applied.
The third test is complicated so I'll try to explain. The Noctua results are 200x22 @ 1.45v and it's the only heat sink to have ever passed this since we started testing in our new format. The water cooling loop was in fact run at 215x21 @ 1.465v which was the maximum clock we achieved on the G1. So even though the water cooling was much cooler it was in fact still at a disadvantage of being run with a higher Vcore and CPU clock. The only factor stopping us pushing further is actually the CPU itself!
Videos
Conclusion
Seems quite conclusive to me, the graphs really do speak for themselves. Let's get the slightly negative parts out of the way first. First of all the price if we say £150 by the time you have bought your coolant that is more than twice the price of the D14. We should also mention that many will doubt their own abilities to fit the kit themselves as it requires more time and effort than just fitting a normal heat sink.
Now the positives, of which in my eyes there are many. Starting with the obvious temperature across all tests were a minimum of 8°c delta lower than the best air heatsinks we have tested to date. This margin only widened the higher the clocks and the volts were pushed, as the air coolers were on their limits the water cooling was still giving delta temps below 50c!
So the temps are amazing, we did run our tests with the fans at 12v making it much louder than the air coolers. However, dropping the fans back to 9v the noise dropped right back as well with only a marginal increase in temps. It would be well worth thinking about a fan speed controller or some resistor cables to slow the fans down should you think about purchasing this.
Next we move on to something I personally think is water coolings ace card - customising. There are so many things you can add or change on these kits apart from the obvious coolant colour to make it your own and add that extra special angle to your new rig build, or for that matter sprucing up an old one. You just can't get away from the fact a rig with a well built water cooling loop will always demand more respect on forums and at LAN's than someone that has just taken the easy option and fitted a heat sink, no matter how well it performs!
So the final paragraph, yes you're right it's not cheap but water should never be. If it's not done right it will be worse than air cooling, so if you are not willing to spend that bit extra you already know what you should be buying. For those with the confidence to fit it and the wallet to take the hit then you'll end up with cooler temps no matter what overclock you plan on pushing too, a better looking rig for all the forum hardware licker's and the most important thing the fact you can sit back after it all and say "I built that".
If I was to compare this to air now it would get silver because of the price, but looking at other water cooling kits that have similar specs its an absolute bargain. So as far as water cooling kits go this deserves nothing less than the coveted OC3D gold award.
We would like to thank Specialtech for sending the kit in for review, you can discuss any questions you have in our forums.
Most Recent Comments
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Originally Posted by Black
another nice vid Tom. What fan speed did u use for tests? |
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Originally Posted by sources95
Tom how would you compare this to a a fully aftermarket setup? |
Loops will perform differently compaired to the parts inside wont they
This kit blatantly keeps the temps low, bigger/thicker rads will allow larger overheads for GPU's, and better pumps will allow a higher head for more restrictive or just more blocks. Its not rocket science to work it out tbh.Quote
I'm still a water-wuss tho. Probably cos I mess about too much.Quote
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Originally Posted by Rastalovich
Nice review, puts things into perspective nicely. I'm still a water-wuss tho. Probably cos I mess about too much. |
By the way arent those CPU temperatures too high. I know the temps arent for a cpu that will do 24/7 but I wouldnt even think of pushing a CPU above 60 celcius in case it would damage the CPU.Quote
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Originally Posted by steve30x
Thats a good watercooling kit. It would fit perfectly into my Obsidian 800D. Although I am gone off watercooling since I had wtaercooling in my rig two years ago and there was too much work keeping the water clean and I was always nervous that the kit might spring a leak. By the way arent those CPU temperatures too high. I know the temps arent for a cpu that will do 24/7 but I wouldnt even think of pushing a CPU above 60 celcius in case it would damage the CPU. |
Infact at those clocks they are epic 
Quoteor am i thinking in the wrong amount
Solid review again my Folding ADMIN
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Originally Posted by steve30x
Thats a good watercooling kit. It would fit perfectly into my Obsidian 800D. Although I am gone off watercooling since I had wtaercooling in my rig two years ago and there was too much work keeping the water clean and I was always nervous that the kit might spring a leak. By the way arent those CPU temperatures too high. I know the temps arent for a cpu that will do 24/7 but I wouldnt even think of pushing a CPU above 60 celcius in case it would damage the CPU. |
I am looking now for a new cooler. That bug is giving you the xtra mile and your rig is so much more personal.
I must admit I never heard of the company SPecialTech but from were I look at it is a nice kit.
I must look for a retailer in Holland were they sell it.
Another great review as always.
Thanks for brining the bug back although I doubt the misses will like it.
me runs out gonna spend some cash tomorrow.
Edit : OKe looked it up, Special Tech is something specific for England.
However the kits they sell from EK are for sall here aswell.Quote
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Originally Posted by tinytomlogan
I say in the video quite a bit and explain why - 12v. |
Yes I watch all your vids to the end, just to see if you use your thumbs QuoteI've water-cooled for the last few years and wouldn't go back to air for anything.
I know it's more expensive, but it's not just about the bling or the bragging rights. if done properly there are real world benefits performance wise from water-cooling. I have the 240 kit from XSPC I borrowed from work and was gonna compare it to my custom kit.
well done.Quote
I have never done w/c but am now prepared to have at it. Just a couple of points
1/ What are the best practices on tubing length/bends?
2/ Is the bleeding process (not being rude) more difficult in a system with the pump/res: up higher? Ie in the drive bays.Quote
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Originally Posted by CSB30
Nice one TTL. I have never done w/c but am now prepared to have at it. Just a couple of points 1/ What are the best practices on tubing length/bends? 2/ Is the bleeding process (not being rude) more difficult in a system with the pump/res: up higher? Ie in the drive bays. |
2/ doesnt really matter just make sure you get all the air out. You probs will have to move the case about a fair bit to get it all out.Quote
although the nice kits from special tech do give you justification Tom did on on the vids a while back too?Quote
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Originally Posted by megamindstorm101
Hey Tom can you make a video of how the triple rad fits in the haf x ? I want that cooler and that case but I dont know how it fits yet. |
there is a pinned thread there called: What Guides do you want for the forums?Quote
Thanks
Oh just realised that you placed the cover over the 3 fans at the end of the video!Quote
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Originally Posted by Mojo1990
How would you install the radiator in the 800D Case? And would it be operational if the 3 fans are placed inside the case, below the radiator as opposed to above the case where they are exposed? Thanks Oh just realised that you placed the cover over the 3 fans at the end of the video! |
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Originally Posted by Zeals
For the 800D there's a nice area at the top where you can fit 3 fans, just bolt the radiator on there. When it comes to fan configuration, it doesn't matter if you put them in push or pull, the 800D has plenty of space at the top for water cooling, so you can place the rad and fans inside the case. I personally would recommend putting the fans inside the case and under the rad pushing the air out of the case, that way it will be a bit quieter, performance wise it shouldn't make a real difference. |
Is it okay if I ask one more question?Are the 3 fans that come with the kit any good in terms of performance? I was thinking of purchasing three 120 mmm fans to go with the radiator since the 800D supports up to 3x120mm fans
Also would it be advisable to upgrade the CPU block at a later date? I know XSPC have a newer version of the CPU Block and also a better version of the Radiator...
Thank you very muchQuote
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Originally Posted by Mojo1990
Awesome thanks for the advice dude Is it okay if I ask one more question?Are the 3 fans that come with the kit any good in terms of performance? I was thinking of purchasing three 120 mmm fans to go with the radiator since the 800D supports up to 3x120mm fans Also would it be advisable to upgrade the CPU block at a later date? I know XSPC have a newer version of the CPU Block and also a better version of the Radiator... Thank you very much |
Upgrading the kit is pointless for just a CPU loop. The next step on from this is a complete custom loop with GPU cooling aswell, so its basically use this untill you have £400+ to spend on going nuts (otherwise you are just wasting money)Quote
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Originally Posted by tinytomlogan
The fans in the kit are meh tbh. So deffo look at replacing them with the value of the rest of your kit 15 or 20 quid on fans is nothing. Upgrading the kit is pointless for just a CPU loop. The next step on from this is a complete custom loop with GPU cooling aswell, so its basically use this untill you have £400+ to spend on going nuts (otherwise you are just wasting money) |
Its just that I realy love how the Gainward GTX580 phantom looks. Since its got a custom PCB you wont be able to use a GTX580 GPU block over it and would mean having to purchase either the EVGA hydro copper or a stock GPU (replacing the covering with cooling GPU blocks). 
I had my heart set on this:
OcUK H20 Obsidian 800DQuote
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Originally Posted by tinytomlogan
No point buying the Phantom if you just want to waterblock it, removing the heatsink removes why it looks good :S |
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Originally Posted by Mojo1990
Awesome thanks for the advice dude Is it okay if I ask one more question?Are the 3 fans that come with the kit any good in terms of performance? I was thinking of purchasing three 120 mmm fans to go with the radiator since the 800D supports up to 3x120mm fans Also would it be advisable to upgrade the CPU block at a later date? I know XSPC have a newer version of the CPU Block and also a better version of the Radiator... Thank you very much |
When it comes to fans, if you are using a push pull configuration it's best to have matching fans. Also my recommendation for replacing the default fans would the Be Quiet! Silent Wings USC, LINK. They are fairly cheap for a high quality fan, and spec wise they are actually better than Noctuas. They have equal CFM, but Be Quiet has higher static pressure; which is what you need for radiators.
And as an added bonus they look great imho.Quote
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Originally Posted by tinytomlogan
Thanks to www.specialtech.co.uk we will be taking a look at the RS360 kit to see how it fairs against the best aircooled heatsinks available today.  Continue Reading |
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=253470Quote
I am looking at buying the same kit but with the 240 rad, never done water cooling before so seems like a good kit to start off with and if i liuke water cooling and want to improve it as you said in the video review you could swap the rad out for a thicker one an d slowly upgrade each part.
Cheers for the review Tom.Quote
I have the ASUS MAXIMUS IV GENE-Z/GEN3 motherboard (1155 socket). It is in perfect condition, but when I take the back plate for the XSPC Rasa for 1155 socket, there r 2 small pins blocking it from locking into place. I am sure that I've put it right.. Any1 know what I should do?? please help
thx in advanceQuote
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Originally Posted by xbias8
Any1 know if this is a common problem? I have the ASUS MAXIMUS IV GENE-Z/GEN3 motherboard (1155 socket). It is in perfect condition, but when I take the back plate for the XSPC Rasa for 1155 socket, there r 2 small pins blocking it from locking into place. I am sure that I've put it right.. Any1 know what I should do?? please help thx in advance |
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Originally Posted by toxic123
would this be enough for a overclocked 2500k and a 660 or 660ti overclocked?
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Originally Posted by toxic123
would this be enough for a overclocked 2500k and a 660 or 660ti overclocked?
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But I don't personally see the point in spending money on a waterblock for a 660 or 660ti.
670 minimum imo. A block is what.. at least £70 for full cover? take the 660ti price + £70 and you could probably get a cheap 7970 or 670?Quote
CSS Valid
Continue ReadingQuote