Corsair Air Series Fans Review SP120 AF120 Review
First Look
Published: 5th July 2012 | Source: Corsair | Price: £18.49 |
First Look
Its worth pointing out at this point that the SP fans and the AF fans do look slightly different, the easiest way for us to explain is the SP's have 7 fat blades (far right) and the AF's have the thinner curvier blades (far left 120 centre 140)
So the eagle eyed among you may have spotted if you didn't already know that the outer rings of the fans can be replaced, these rings are indeed included with the fans and surprisingly not an additional cost option. Each fan comes with white blue and red rings so the basic colours for matching your rig are covered but considering you will have spares there's nothing stopping some paint being thrown around for all those modders out there.
Before we show you the fans in our test rig we thought we would show you a couple of photos with the different colour rings being used from the Corsair Website.
We have been using a range of the fans in a Corsair 500R with a H100 taking care of cooling, be sure to head over the page to see the full rig specs and how we tested them.
Most Recent Comments
Pretty much as i saw it too,15 SP 120 in my build are quieter than 6 UltraKazes at the same RPM...quieter than the Enermax PSU fan in my build also!
they seem to tickle you pretty good. awesome review. gives alternatives of
choices with performance to back them up. currently unvolting the sp120 perf
fan and they are a schosh louder than the quiets but have 3° better performance
on a 60mm radiator (in push only) over the quiet edition. is there really a
necessity for push/pull with these. chiming on quietness, i don't think so...
airdeano
choices with performance to back them up. currently unvolting the sp120 perf
fan and they are a schosh louder than the quiets but have 3° better performance
on a 60mm radiator (in push only) over the quiet edition. is there really a
necessity for push/pull with these. chiming on quietness, i don't think so...
airdeano
I wasn't too sure if i wanted these or the Noctuas for my rig overhaul, and even tho i am one of the few people who like the noctua fans, i'll definitely get the AF and SP fans instead!
Mission: Become Corsair fanboi
Status: Accomplished
Mission: Become Corsair fanboi
Status: Accomplished
wow these are nice, may even consider swapping these in where i have the nf-f12's atm and put the f12's where the standard corsair h100 fans are atm
Nice review Tom.
Just ordered the following:
1 x 140mm Corsair AF140
1 x 120mm Corsair AF120 Quiet
2 x 120mm Corsair SP120 Quiet
Just ordered the following:
1 x 140mm Corsair AF140
1 x 120mm Corsair AF120 Quiet
2 x 120mm Corsair SP120 Quiet
Loving these fans will get a couple for my rig for my H80
nice review tom...
i love the look of those fans
i love the look of those fans
Gold award is nice, but any reputable fan manufacturer will include MTBF specs along with their product. Noctua rates their fan at >150,000 hours. Sure, you can get two Corsair fans for the price of 1 Noctua, but if over the course of 5 years I replace those Corsair fans 3-4 times, as opposed to having that Noctua fan work for 5 years, guess which brand ends up costing less?
I've had supposedly good fans die after just 5000 hours. You cannot give a Gold award for a fan without looking at it's reliability.
Sorry Tom, no intention of taking your words apart, just being objective!
I've had supposedly good fans die after just 5000 hours. You cannot give a Gold award for a fan without looking at it's reliability.
Sorry Tom, no intention of taking your words apart, just being objective!
Nice review as always.
Apart from the "missing" AP140mm version, I only miss one thing: Black rings! I know you can just remove the rings alltogether, but the fans somehow look nooted without them, since the blades will "stick out".
But again, DAMM YOU Corsair for not bringing out an AP140mm version. Would be perfect for my incomming SR-1 280mm
Apart from the "missing" AP140mm version, I only miss one thing: Black rings! I know you can just remove the rings alltogether, but the fans somehow look nooted without them, since the blades will "stick out".
But again, DAMM YOU Corsair for not bringing out an AP140mm version. Would be perfect for my incomming SR-1 280mm
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Originally Posted by Ciric
Nice review as always.
Apart from the "missing" AP140mm version, I only miss one thing: Black rings! I know you can just remove the rings alltogether, but the fans somehow look nooted without them, since the blades will "stick out". But again, DAMM YOU Corsair for not bringing out an AP140mm version. Would be perfect for my incomming SR-1 280mm |
The prices at SpecialTech are very tempting, may end up ordering some of these fans over the weekend
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Originally Posted by dipzy
The prices at SpecialTech are very tempting, may end up ordering some of these fans over the weekend
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When i get round to doing watercooling for a build, will deffo use these guys 
I registered on the forums a while back, need to start being be more active on their aswell
I registered on the forums a while back, need to start being be more active on their aswell
I bought 4 of these from specialtech(2x2packs) , and just have to install them, and if I will be happy with them than probably I may order some more.
This may seem like a silly question, but I'm really not sure, the static pressure fans are rated at what air they push out from them right? so my rad only has one set of fans PULLING air through the rad, are they still going to preform the same?
NO PWM tony you should focus on that
Well done tom another great review.
i can vouch for these just put the 120mm SP quiets in my rig and theyre brilliant!
i can vouch for these just put the 120mm SP quiets in my rig and theyre brilliant!
£110 just to fit 9 of these to my rig. Hmmmm lol
Mrs not gonna be happy :P
Mrs not gonna be happy :P
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Originally Posted by Vicey
£110 just to fit 9 of these to my rig. Hmmmm lol
Mrs not gonna be happy :P |
Just replaced all of my Phobya Nano g's with the new corsair fans. Got 4 SP120 quit editions and 4 AP120 quite editions for the case. Now if they just release 180mm versions to replace my airpenetrators at the bottom of the case. it would be one very very quite PC.
Realy liking the corsair fans. Definatly a great buy. and half the price as the noctuas. But with Much much better looks.
Realy liking the corsair fans. Definatly a great buy. and half the price as the noctuas. But with Much much better looks.
I recently bought some AF120 quiet edition fans. I planned on replacing the 4 Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1450rpm I have on the side mesh of my Corsair 600t with a view to reducing the noise levels. They were definitely quiet but didn't move much air at all! I was surprised how weak the airflow was.
I know it's a very rough way of estimating airflow but when I had 1 Scythe and 1 AF120 attached to the case the Scythe running at 60% felt like it was moving more air than the AF120 (edit: the AF was at 100%). I was disappointed enough to remove the AFs and go back to the Scythes. Perhaps the performance edition would have been a better choice but I'm happy enough with my Scythes to not bother.
Anyway this is just a quick word of warning for anyone considering them. They are very quiet, but don't expect them to shift much air!
I know it's a very rough way of estimating airflow but when I had 1 Scythe and 1 AF120 attached to the case the Scythe running at 60% felt like it was moving more air than the AF120 (edit: the AF was at 100%). I was disappointed enough to remove the AFs and go back to the Scythes. Perhaps the performance edition would have been a better choice but I'm happy enough with my Scythes to not bother.
Anyway this is just a quick word of warning for anyone considering them. They are very quiet, but don't expect them to shift much air!
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Originally Posted by cerbrus2
Just replaced all of my Phobya Nano g's with the new corsair fans. Got 4 SP120 quit editions and 4 AP120 quite editions for the case. Now if they just release 180mm versions to replace my airpenetrators at the bottom of the case. it would be one very very quite PC.
Realy liking the corsair fans. Definatly a great buy. and half the price as the noctuas. But with Much much better looks. |
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Originally Posted by Ulijin
....Anyway this is just a quick word of warning for anyone considering them. They are very quiet, but don't expect them to shift much air!
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them to suit to audible and air-flow tastes with the adapters or fan controller.
airdeano
I'm about to order some of those for a push/pull set up and I was wondering what's best: one SP to push and one high air flow to pull or simply two SPs.
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Originally Posted by dimbidim
I'm about to order some of those for a push/pull set up and I was wondering what's best: one SP to push and one high air flow to pull or simply two SPs.
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by dimbidim
I'm about to order some of those for a push/pull set up and I was wondering what's best: one SP to push and one high air flow to pull or simply two SPs.
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I would think SP fan's both sides of your rad is the way to go although I've never tried SP pushing and an AF pulling...
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Originally Posted by dimbidim
I'm about to order some of those for a push/pull set up and I was wondering what's best: one SP to push and one high air flow to pull or simply two SPs.
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After 2weeks of use I really like how this fans looks but they clicking a bit(which is a bit annoying) I running them from molex because, when I connect them to fan controller the clicking was just to loud.I'm using SP120 Q.
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Originally Posted by | raVen |
After 2weeks of use I really like how this fans looks but they clicking a bit(which is a bit annoying) I running them from molex because, when I connect them to fan controller the clicking was just to loud.I'm using SP120 Q.
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proper LOL'ing here because I know what it is (I did it too) just amazed youve not bothered to look!
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Originally Posted by tinytomlogan
LOL Id put money on the fact your ring on the outside of the fan isnt on right!!!!
proper LOL'ing here because I know what it is (Idid it too) just amazed youve not bothered to look! |
How much you can put on???Dont be so sure mate
The all rings snaps into place how it should be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFi39czpsac&feature=plcp
Yeah check the rings mate.....
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Originally Posted by tinytomlogan
Yeah check the rings mate.....
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Did you watched this video from my link?They'll buzz/click from a fan controller, because the fan controller will work by rapidly turning the fans on and off instead of reducing the voltage. Blame the fan controller - not the fans.
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Originally Posted by tinytomlogan
That makes no sense what so ever
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You have all the types of fans available Tom, why not make it a quick test. (PC myth busters of sorts)
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Originally Posted by OcSurfer
Troll?
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Since when did asking a question become Trolling?
Ok sorted now!
The thing that was clicking now was.....not the fans......but.......................ddc pumpLOL
I was really thinking that fans was making that noise. Before I didnt hear the pump.
But definitelythey clicking on fan controller like crazy But GT A15 are not clicking, maybe its different motor and that's why.
Also I will agree with cerbrus that AF120 will work better on pull than SP120, since they can suck more air.
The thing that was clicking now was.....not the fans......but.......................ddc pump
LOLI was really thinking that fans was making that noise. Before I didnt hear the pump.
But definitelythey clicking on fan controller like crazy
But GT A15 are not clicking, maybe its different motor and that's why.Also I will agree with cerbrus that AF120 will work better on pull than SP120, since they can suck more air.
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Originally Posted by | raVen |
Ok sorted now!
The thing that was clicking now was.....not the fans......but.......................ddc pump LOLI was really thinking that fans was making that noise. Before I didnt hear the pump. But definitelythey clicking on fan controller like crazy But GT A15 are not clicking, maybe its different motor and that's why.Also I will agree with cerbrus that AF120 will work better on pull than SP120, since they can suck more air. |
Anyway - yeh, some fans do click with the controllers. I have been through a lot of fans and tested which ones do click, and which dont. Coolermaster fans have been the worst for me, but Yate Loons do it too. Obviously this shows Corsair fans arent the best idea if you're using a fan controller. Still - I dont understand why you're using it anyway, considering you get a voltage resistor included?
You will loose 10£ mate 1000% rings was properly on place.
I'm not using them anymore on fan controller, 4 of SP120 are connected to this fan board(I dont know how it meant to be called properly) that you have included on Switch 810, and now they are fine. On my previous build I was using Stickleflow 120 green and they been clicking crazy too, stock NZXT fans as well, and thermaltake Ty-140. So its not that easy to get fans that doesnt click and buzz on fan controller, so I will have to get rid of my fan controller, and think about some other solution.Any ideas?
1000% rings was properly on place.I'm not using them anymore on fan controller, 4 of SP120 are connected to this fan board(I dont know how it meant to be called properly) that you have included on Switch 810, and now they are fine. On my previous build I was using Stickleflow 120 green and they been clicking crazy too, stock NZXT fans as well, and thermaltake Ty-140. So its not that easy to get fans that doesnt click and buzz on fan controller, so I will have to get rid of my fan controller, and think about some other solution.Any ideas?
I use fan resistors, like you got in the Corsair fans. Except mine all give the choice between 5v, 7v and 12v. Running fans at 7v has always been fine for me. Things dont get too hot anyway, but if I did, I'd turn clocks down before increasing fans to 12v
I think that I will go for something like this http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_...qr73osl1g0df77
and some resistors, hopefully this will make it look tidy.
and some resistors, hopefully this will make it look tidy.
guys, you know your PSU has 5-volt and 7-volt power, right?
12-volt is the yellow and paired black
5-volt is the red and paired black
7-volt is the yellow and red paired.
convert some of those old molex extensions you have lying around into power taps for the different
voltage outputs. no controllers, no hot resistors, and can be ganged for PSU wattage output.
cost, nada! maybe some gray matter and cold drinking... but nada!
airdeano
12-volt is the yellow and paired black
5-volt is the red and paired black
7-volt is the yellow and red paired.
convert some of those old molex extensions you have lying around into power taps for the different
voltage outputs. no controllers, no hot resistors, and can be ganged for PSU wattage output.
cost, nada! maybe some gray matter and cold drinking... but nada!
airdeano
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Originally Posted by airdeano
guys, you know your PSU has 5-volt and 7-volt power, right?
12-volt is the yellow and paired black 5-volt is the red and paired black 7-volt is the yellow and red paired. convert some of those old molex extensions you have lying around into power taps for the different voltage outputs. no controllers, no hot resistors, and can be ganged for PSU wattage output. cost, nada! maybe some gray matter and cold drinking... but nada! airdeano |
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Originally Posted by cerbrus2
Yeah just what we all need in are Cases. More bulky horrible Molex connection to try and hide.
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Assuming you arent gunna overthink this and think he means 1 molex connector per fan?
Although, for the effort required, plus the fact you'd need to be buying the extenders and then fan splitters on the end of that, you'd be better off buying http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...odid=CM-102-BX
Considering it's only a fiver, even having 2 of those would still be cheaper than a fan controller, and can 'control' 6 fans in total.
I personally use one of those, and then a 7v reducer with another x3 splitter in that, so I can control 6 fans off 2 molex. Since I dont use an optical drive, or anything in the drive bays, I have all my fan cables in there. I know it sounds bad, and it does look a mess - but you cant see it at all through the window, and it makes the cabling on the back a lot neater
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Originally Posted by jamesriley94
Well you need it any way in order to power your fans?
Assuming you arent gunna overthink this and think he means 1 molex connector per fan? Although, for the effort required, plus the fact you'd need to be buying the extenders and then fan splitters on the end of that, you'd be better off buying http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...odid=CM-102-BX Considering it's only a fiver, even having 2 of those would still be cheaper than a fan controller, and can 'control' 6 fans in total. I personally use one of those, and then a 7v reducer with another x3 splitter in that, so I can control 6 fans off 2 molex. Since I dont use an optical drive, or anything in the drive bays, I have all my fan cables in there. I know it sounds bad, and it does look a mess - but you cant see it at all through the window, and it makes the cabling on the back a lot neater |
lol, I agree with that about the fan controllers. I did own one, as I bought the NZXT Sentry 2 when I was 14/15 cause I thought it looked cool Got rid of it a couple of months ago, cause I never adjusted the fans anyway, and it was just a mess.
I dont have enough fan headers coming off the motherboard, and they arent at the edge so I cant do that, but my case is very tidy (IMO
) so I'm currently very happy with the resistors.
Got rid of it a couple of months ago, cause I never adjusted the fans anyway, and it was just a mess.I dont have enough fan headers coming off the motherboard, and they arent at the edge so I cant do that, but my case is very tidy (IMO
) so I'm currently very happy with the resistors.Quote:
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Originally Posted by cerbrus2
Yeah just what we all need in are Cases. More bulky horrible Molex connection to try and hide.
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and everyone has fan adjustable 3/4-pin headers on their motherboards? NOT!
look not everyone has the ability to control their fans on a motherboard like you
can (which the amp draw and current for those small traces wasn't designed
for). so an alternative is yes, molex connections. and managing a molex connector
is not that hard, so please.
boasting your fan control is great.. but not everyone has that luxury.
airdeano
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Originally Posted by airdeano
yeah, it is what everyone needs in their case.
and everyone has fan adjustable 3/4-pin headers on their motherboards? NOT! look not everyone has the ability to control their fans on a motherboard like you can (which the amp draw and current for those small traces wasn't designed for). so an alternative is yes, molex connections. and managing a molex connector is not that hard, so please. boasting your fan control is great.. but not everyone has that luxury. airdeano |
No overclocker in their right mind would load the mobo VRM's with fans on the mobo headers.
So many fans on one header can only go one way....south.
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Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE
QFT.
No overclocker in their right mind would load the mobo VRM's with fans on the mobo headers. So many fans on one header can only go one way....south. |
Overclocking works fine with a bunch of fans connected.Really you would use more power by just adding an extra Graphics Card than you would using every PWM header on the motherboard. But overclockers do that and they don't have any issues. All the records today are set by boards with four cards installed that use 100x more power than using all the headers on the Motherboard.
It really doesn't affect overclocking to run fans on the headers. The motherboard makers aren't silly they design these connectors with appropriate power delivery just like all the other components.
If you have a source for what you're saying I'd like to read it.
+1 for B-
i really dont have to ask a motherboard manufacturer whether a 2.5a or more load on a fan header
is good or bad. just look at the .005" micro-trace on the PCB. it wasn't meant to handle large
gangs of Y-splittered fans. and especially for under-volting. those doing it are lucky now, but
when that header is crap.. we will know what caused it for an RMA...
"But overclockers do that and they don't have any issues" that you know of...
i'll use a molex, just fine..
airdeano
i really dont have to ask a motherboard manufacturer whether a 2.5a or more load on a fan header
is good or bad. just look at the .005" micro-trace on the PCB. it wasn't meant to handle large
gangs of Y-splittered fans. and especially for under-volting. those doing it are lucky now, but
when that header is crap.. we will know what caused it for an RMA...
"But overclockers do that and they don't have any issues" that you know of...
i'll use a molex, just fine..
airdeano
Y Splitters? Who said anything about running Y Splitters. Get a motherboard with enough fan headers for your fans. Personally I use a fan controller because my external radiator has 9x120mm fans on it. I run those off a single channel on my beefy fan controller which I now have hidden behind an aluminum plate in my case so you can't see the controller. Using molex would be a pain in the ass.
But the 4x140mm fans inside my case I connect to the motherboard and control using AISuites Fan Xpert and I reach OC's of 4.8GHz perfectly fine.
Before I had this board I used a P6T6 and used its fan headers, no problem with overclocking. Then I had a UD5 by Gigabyte, no problem again, then EVGA board, no problem. I've never hit an overclocking wall due to power use always because the chip has reached its limit.
If you can prove to me that overclocking has been hindered by the use of the onboard fans then show me some sources. We hear all the time all over these internet forums about peoples issues and I think if this was a problem we'd have heard something by now but I have never ever heard of this at all apart from B Negatives post.
But the 4x140mm fans inside my case I connect to the motherboard and control using AISuites Fan Xpert and I reach OC's of 4.8GHz perfectly fine.
Before I had this board I used a P6T6 and used its fan headers, no problem with overclocking. Then I had a UD5 by Gigabyte, no problem again, then EVGA board, no problem. I've never hit an overclocking wall due to power use always because the chip has reached its limit.
If you can prove to me that overclocking has been hindered by the use of the onboard fans then show me some sources. We hear all the time all over these internet forums about peoples issues and I think if this was a problem we'd have heard something by now but I have never ever heard of this at all apart from B Negatives post.
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Originally Posted by Vicey
Y Splitters? Who said anything about running Y Splitters. Get a motherboard with enough fan headers for your fans. Personally I use a fan controller because my external radiator has 9x120mm fans on it. I run those off a single channel on my beefy fan controller which I now have hidden behind an aluminum plate in my case so you can't see the controller. Using molex would be a pain in the ass.
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Originally Posted by Lollipop
LOL!
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Vicey
I don't get it, what's so funny about that?
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LOLEven if motherboard will have enough fan headers, not all the fans will reach to motherboard and you will have to use extencion cables.
My fan controller start to pissing me off because it makes fans buzzing and clicking, I think even GT A15 starting to buzz a bit.
So I think that the best solution will be molex splitter and resistor like this one form bitfenix.
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Originally Posted by | raVen |
I have 14 fans in my case, please find me motherboard with enoooought fan headers
LOLMy fan controller start to pissing me off because it makes fans buzzing and clicking, I think even GT A15 starting to buzz a bit. So I think that the best solution will be molex splitter and resistor like this one form bitfenix. |
I use a Kaze fan controller for my external rad as noted before. It's quite good has 6 temperature probes and 6 channels but I can happily run 9 fans off one channel without any buzzing or power issues. I actually contacted Kaze before I bought it and asked them if it could take that many fans on a single channel and they said yes it would work fine and only be about 70% of the channels total capacity.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Vicey
Well I don't know about 14 but my Motherboard has 8. I'm only using 4 though.
I use a Kaze fan controller for my external rad as noted before. It's quite good has 6 temperature probes and 6 channels but I can happily run 9 fans off one channel without any buzzing or power issues. I actually contacted Kaze before I bought it and asked them if it could take that many fans on a single channel and they said yes it would work fine and only be about 70% of the channels total capacity. |
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Originally Posted by Lollipop
It makes it look untidy, because the headers are spread around everywhere instead of gathered in the corner or something.
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Originally Posted by Vicey
Yeah ok that's valid but I still don't see how using the onboard headers affects overclocking, aesthetics sure.
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For general use it doesnt matter at all.
Also Vicey, fancy putting up a pic of the inside of your case? I'm quite interested to see how tidy you've got it using motherboard headers and a fan controller.
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Originally Posted by jamesriley94
I'm guessing the thought behind it is that if you're overclocking, you'd need all the available power going into a motherboard going to the chipsets. If you7 connect fans to this, it would take some power away from these - albeit not much, but if you're going for records or anything, it's obviously not something you'd be wanting, even if there was only a small chance it even made a difference.
For general use it doesnt matter at all. Also Vicey, fancy putting up a pic of the inside of your case? I'm quite interested to see how tidy you've got it using motherboard headers and a fan controller. |
And I still don't think it would make a difference. As I said before if you're going for records you're going to be using four graphics cards or something equally nutty and those use way more power than a few fans, even switching from one card to another can drastically change the power consumption way more than using the fans would.
I'm just saying there is no data to confirm what was said. We can all just say things but lets deal in facts.
Good build, cant even see the fan headers from those pictures though.
tbf though, in a build like yours, that's pretty easy to get away with using the fan headers on the motherboard, as there's so much more going on inside the case than a standard computer.
If I were using the fan headers on mine, it would make things a lot harder to do neatly.
Anyway - regarding the overclocking. Does it matter?
You can never actually get the full 12v of power form the motherboard header for a fan though, so if fans in your case are playing a big role and you need them going as fast as possible, then you are gunna be better off going through molex as you'd be able to get them to shift more air like that.
I dont really think it makes much of a difference. But I know unless you get a perfect motherboard layout for it, then it could make it hard, and ugly to do.
Also, a lot of motherboards dont support controlling on the on board headers.
Yours is also not a conventional case remember - and in my CM 690 II, it's far easier for me to hide the cables straight behind the motherboard tray, and run the fans through a molex behind there and completely out of sight.
Can we just say it depends on the motherboard and case - and user for that matter, and leave it there?
tbf though, in a build like yours, that's pretty easy to get away with using the fan headers on the motherboard, as there's so much more going on inside the case than a standard computer.
If I were using the fan headers on mine, it would make things a lot harder to do neatly.
Anyway - regarding the overclocking. Does it matter?
You can never actually get the full 12v of power form the motherboard header for a fan though, so if fans in your case are playing a big role and you need them going as fast as possible, then you are gunna be better off going through molex as you'd be able to get them to shift more air like that.
I dont really think it makes much of a difference. But I know unless you get a perfect motherboard layout for it, then it could make it hard, and ugly to do.
Also, a lot of motherboards dont support controlling on the on board headers.
Yours is also not a conventional case remember - and in my CM 690 II, it's far easier for me to hide the cables straight behind the motherboard tray, and run the fans through a molex behind there and completely out of sight.
Can we just say it depends on the motherboard and case - and user for that matter, and leave it there?
I conceded earlier that it's not best aesthetically. I just think we shouldn't just be saying stuff without facts, the overclocking thing was just a bit silly to say in my opinion. There is no problem with using onboard fan headers, if you don't want to use them for aesthetics fine but lets not make up stuff to get others not to use them.
Molex, Fan Controllers, Motherboard Headers: All fine options.
Molex, Fan Controllers, Motherboard Headers: All fine options.
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Originally Posted by Vicey
Molex, Fan Controllers, Motherboard Headers: All fine options.
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by jamesriley94
Some fan controllers.
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I don't see many budget builds around these forums period.
Not about budget or not, its about how they control the fans.
The Scythe ones like yours work by decreasing the voltage which is perfect for it.
Others, such as the NZXT Sentrys (which are hardly budget) work by rapidly switching the fans on and off. This is what causes the fans to click or buzz.
The only 2 that I know to definitely work the voltage reducing way, is yours and the Lamptron controllers, so I'd be very careful if I was buying one myself
The Scythe ones like yours work by decreasing the voltage which is perfect for it.
Others, such as the NZXT Sentrys (which are hardly budget) work by rapidly switching the fans on and off. This is what causes the fans to click or buzz.
The only 2 that I know to definitely work the voltage reducing way, is yours and the Lamptron controllers, so I'd be very careful if I was buying one myself
Like everything you need to do your research before you buy anything. Just because something is more pricey doesn't mean it's going to be a good purchase (3960X as an example of something overpriced with mediocre gains over the 3930K).
But this is just like an accepted fact of being a consumer in general.
But this is just like an accepted fact of being a consumer in general.
i cant stand fan controllers for the fact that running wires back and forth (more sleeving) and
a cluster in the opti-bay to mention. i'd prefer trying to run the proper fan and if necessary use
a gang box or junction to tie them all together for the 12-volt, 7-volt and 5-volt power taps.
so instead in the viewing area in the front, place it behind the motherboard tray where it
cannot be seen. just my opinion.
airdeano
a cluster in the opti-bay to mention. i'd prefer trying to run the proper fan and if necessary use
a gang box or junction to tie them all together for the 12-volt, 7-volt and 5-volt power taps.
so instead in the viewing area in the front, place it behind the motherboard tray where it
cannot be seen. just my opinion.
airdeano
Quote:
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Originally Posted by airdeano
i cant stand fan controllers for the fact that running wires back and forth (more sleeving) and
a cluster in the opti-bay to mention. i'd prefer trying to run the proper fan and if necessary use a gang box or junction to tie them all together for the 12-volt, 7-volt and 5-volt power taps. so instead in the viewing area in the front, place it behind the motherboard tray where it cannot be seen. just my opinion. airdeano |
I do have a hole in the side of my optical bays though where I have all my fan cables going through. As I dont use optical bays, it's fine, and nothing's visible through the window. Keeps things neater on the back too
Quote:
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Originally Posted by airdeano
i cant stand fan controllers for the fact that running wires back and forth (more sleeving) and
a cluster in the opti-bay to mention. i'd prefer trying to run the proper fan and if necessary use a gang box or junction to tie them all together for the 12-volt, 7-volt and 5-volt power taps. so instead in the viewing area in the front, place it behind the motherboard tray where it cannot be seen. just my opinion. airdeano |
EDIT:// This is not the one I remember but this is one of this type http://www.quietpc.com/products/case...sories/hfx-112
T-Balancer/Big NG by Mcubed i am a fan and owner of a couple of them. i've tested and played
with them for a couple of years now. currently i'm testing the Corsair Link for the H-series and
fan/lighting control.
still i am not a devoted controller user. i prefer the molex under-volt.
airdeano
with them for a couple of years now. currently i'm testing the Corsair Link for the H-series and
fan/lighting control.
still i am not a devoted controller user. i prefer the molex under-volt.
airdeano
What I felt was missing from the review was a quick test as to what they actually sound like...
So let's fix that.
http://youtu.be/zReHwGmG92A
So let's fix that.
http://youtu.be/zReHwGmG92A
Quote:
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Originally Posted by airdeano
T-Balancer/Big NG by Mcubed i am a fan and owner of a couple of them. i've tested and played
with them for a couple of years now. currently i'm testing the Corsair Link for the H-series and fan/lighting control. still i am not a devoted controller user. i prefer the molex under-volt. airdeano |
lollipop, i have the kit (CL-9011106-WW). i haven't played with the lighting side of the package.
airdeano
airdeano
Quote:
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Originally Posted by airdeano
lollipop, i have the kit (CL-9011106-WW). i haven't played with the lighting side of the package.
airdeano |
I figured out it was the fan controller being shit. Sooooooooo... nevermind that last video unless you want to hear what they sound like on less ideal fan controllers, lol.
I've got the fans installed now, and I have to admit they really look sweet. And are rather quiet.
http://i.imgur.com/k63nQ.jpg
I've got the fans installed now, and I have to admit they really look sweet. And are rather quiet.
http://i.imgur.com/k63nQ.jpg
You got the Alphacool rads?
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Lollipop
You got the Alphacool rads?
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Right, so bought a couple of these (one AF140 (quiet), one dual pack of AF140's (performance))....
Figured I'd get them over the NF-F12's and run them off the fan controller built into my v354.
Must admit they are pretty quiet...
Biggest problem though... Where's the extension cable?
Can't believe they overlooked this one...
The V354 is hardly a big case... but with the fan controller at the rear of the case, the front fans can't reach, at all, nevermind if I tried to route them nicely...
Now any other fans I've experienced, they tend to either provide you with an extension, or make the cables long enough that you don't have to worry. I'm pretty sure Noctua's cables are pretty short, but provide you with a decent length extension?
Have to admit to being slightly miffed by that really...
The 140 is certainly also at a noticeable volume at 12V. Whilst I haven't heard louder, I've heard quieter....
But yeah, just really wanted to make people aware about the complete lack of extensions, which I could certainly see being an issue if you're doing something like the Elysium, Switch, TJ11 etc.. where fans might have to go a long way to the fan controller at the front of the case...
kd
Figured I'd get them over the NF-F12's and run them off the fan controller built into my v354.
Must admit they are pretty quiet...
Biggest problem though... Where's the extension cable?
Can't believe they overlooked this one...
The V354 is hardly a big case... but with the fan controller at the rear of the case, the front fans can't reach, at all, nevermind if I tried to route them nicely...
Now any other fans I've experienced, they tend to either provide you with an extension, or make the cables long enough that you don't have to worry. I'm pretty sure Noctua's cables are pretty short, but provide you with a decent length extension?
Have to admit to being slightly miffed by that really...
The 140 is certainly also at a noticeable volume at 12V. Whilst I haven't heard louder, I've heard quieter....
But yeah, just really wanted to make people aware about the complete lack of extensions, which I could certainly see being an issue if you're doing something like the Elysium, Switch, TJ11 etc.. where fans might have to go a long way to the fan controller at the front of the case...
kd
I don't know about the NF-F12's but the older noctua fans do not come with extensions.
They do...
(The NF-F12's)
kd
Quote:
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Extensive Cabling Options The fan’s short 20cm primary cable minimises cable clutter in typical applications while the supplied 30cm extension provides extended reach when necessary. Both cables are fully sleeved and a 4-pin y-cable allows to connect a second NF-F12 fan to the same PWM fan header for automatic control. |
kd
But they are also double the cost of a single AF/SP fan.
I sure hope Corsair decides to make larger fans in the "Air Series". I need some 230mm fans. I'd like to go with a full set, but the size restrictions prevent me from doing so.
They also need to make SF in all sizes to deal with filters, and especially 140mm fans for newer rads.
They also need to make SF in all sizes to deal with filters, and especially 140mm fans for newer rads.
I might muddy the waters some what here.
I'm new to all this fan business. Before I just used to chuck anything in my rig.
However I'm currently running an Alpenfohn Matterhorn PURE with 2 SP120 Performance Editions and currently as I type this they are quiet. Happily sitting at ~891rpm @ 28°C (Room Temp 21.4°C)
Here's the thing though, I have them controlled via PWM.
So I have the quiet of the QE when I'm just general using the PC but when and if I need it, I have the performance of the PE.
I'm new to all this fan business. Before I just used to chuck anything in my rig.
However I'm currently running an Alpenfohn Matterhorn PURE with 2 SP120 Performance Editions and currently as I type this they are quiet. Happily sitting at ~891rpm @ 28°C (Room Temp 21.4°C)
Here's the thing though, I have them controlled via PWM.
So I have the quiet of the QE when I'm just general using the PC but when and if I need it, I have the performance of the PE.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Resident
I might muddy the waters some what here.
Here's the thing though, I have them controlled via PWM. |
dunna know how you got a 3-pin fan to get serviced by PWM?
did you add a PWM control wire to the fan? i couldn't find a way to do that?
got some pictures of the service end of the fan?
airdeano
Quote:
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Originally Posted by airdeano
welcome to the OC3D forum,
dunna know how you got a 3-pin fan to get serviced by PWM? did you add a PWM control wire to the fan? i couldn't find a way to do that? got some pictures of the service end of the fan? airdeano |
Please note it is a complete "home-brew" solution. It's still being developed, I just have one of the version 1 'prototypes' Version 2 is better.
so the fan isnt PWM, the relay board is a cross-current relay.. ok.
a step-down fan controller, using a PWM wave to collect a signal and correct the data stream
in the fan output. got 'cha..
airdeano
a step-down fan controller, using a PWM wave to collect a signal and correct the data stream
in the fan output. got 'cha..
airdeano
Quote:
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Originally Posted by airdeano
so the fan isnt PWM, the relay board is a cross-current relay.. ok.
a step-down fan controller, using a PWM wave to collect a signal and correct the data stream in the fan output. got 'cha.. airdeano |
This adaptor allows standard 3pin fans to be connected and controlled by PWM. It's great for those that want specific cooler fans but would have to trust a fan controller or run them at a constant speed without the adaptor.
Personally I wouldn't trust a fan controller for the CPU cooler because it's relying on a third-party sensor
How does PWM solve your issue...? *puzzled*
Quote:
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Originally Posted by drunkenvalley
How does PWM solve your issue...? *puzzled*
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It's hardly brain-taxing stuff.
You can go be snide in your own spare time. My question is why you wouldn't just run a voltage regulator off the motherboard in the first place, which would achieve the same effect...?
Quote:
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Originally Posted by drunkenvalley
You can go be snide in your own spare time. My question is why you wouldn't just run a voltage regulator off the motherboard in the first place, which would achieve the same effect...?
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james, I'm not entirely sure I follow your train of thought here; if you're not running third party sensors of any kind, you're running the fans off of the motherboard if you have any way of telling the temperatures, no...?
With motherboards nowadays coming with pretty packed fan regulation software, especially Asus ones, I am simply having trouble seeing how PWM is going to be any better or worse than voltage regulation.
Of course, I may just not understand some fundamental concept here, so don't be shy to enlighten me.
With motherboards nowadays coming with pretty packed fan regulation software, especially Asus ones, I am simply having trouble seeing how PWM is going to be any better or worse than voltage regulation.
Of course, I may just not understand some fundamental concept here, so don't be shy to enlighten me.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by jamesriley94
A voltage regulator would cap the maximum speed? PWM allows maximum speed and also tones down the fan when temps arent a problem
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Oh and I am in my own time
The idea is with PWM you can set the fans on auto on the motherboard so they vary with temps - and you are right in saying about the software which would help to control etc...
This would mean that on a PWM fan, they will run as quiet as they can at idle, but automatically ramp up to a user defined setting on the control software under load.
On a voltage regulator though - the fan would constantly run at say 1000rpm. It wouldnt tone itself down at idle, and it wouldnt ramp up when under load. Therefore PWM would be better...
However - motherboard fan headers are often awkward to be able to connect all your fans too. I have 9 case fans in total and so would be unable to run all of those from my motherboard, and it would be a cabling nightmare to do so with splitters. So I do run voltage regulators - and so I have all my fans at 5v, and the cpu fans at 7v. But, my system is silent all the time, so I dont need my fans to ramp down, and temps are no issue under load anyway so I dont need them to ramp up...
It just depends how you want to set your fans up tbh - I prefer voltage regulators myself. I'm against any method of fan controlling such as PWM or a bay fan controller, as it's a cabling nightmare, and IMO fans dont need to be turned up and down dependant on load if you set them up to optimise the best of both worlds in the first place.
This would mean that on a PWM fan, they will run as quiet as they can at idle, but automatically ramp up to a user defined setting on the control software under load.
On a voltage regulator though - the fan would constantly run at say 1000rpm. It wouldnt tone itself down at idle, and it wouldnt ramp up when under load. Therefore PWM would be better...
However - motherboard fan headers are often awkward to be able to connect all your fans too. I have 9 case fans in total and so would be unable to run all of those from my motherboard, and it would be a cabling nightmare to do so with splitters. So I do run voltage regulators - and so I have all my fans at 5v, and the cpu fans at 7v. But, my system is silent all the time, so I dont need my fans to ramp down, and temps are no issue under load anyway so I dont need them to ramp up...
It just depends how you want to set your fans up tbh - I prefer voltage regulators myself. I'm against any method of fan controlling such as PWM or a bay fan controller, as it's a cabling nightmare, and IMO fans dont need to be turned up and down dependant on load if you set them up to optimise the best of both worlds in the first place.
I use PWM purely because of the control aspect. I wanted performance fans for when it's needed. As my room is south facing it can get quite warm during summer and it retains that heat but for the most part it's usually between 21-24°C. I mean even now it's 22.2°C in the room whilst it's 13.4 outside with the windows open at "vent" stage.
If I leave my PC doing something with a moderate to heavy CPU load I like the knowledge that if the room temp climbs the PWM raise the fan speed to compensate for the rise in CPU temps because I wouldn't be there to manually do so.
I'm only using PWM for the CPU, not the whole setup, however my case fans will be on a fan controller (NZXT LXE) when it arrives, although I'm getting that particular one mainly because it's a shiny gadget
If I leave my PC doing something with a moderate to heavy CPU load I like the knowledge that if the room temp climbs the PWM raise the fan speed to compensate for the rise in CPU temps because I wouldn't be there to manually do so.
I'm only using PWM for the CPU, not the whole setup, however my case fans will be on a fan controller (NZXT LXE) when it arrives, although I'm getting that particular one mainly because it's a shiny gadget
You bought a fan controller? /facepalm
More so, you bought the NZXT one...
What fans do you have? The NZXT controllers work by rapidly turning the fans on and off, and some fans will make horrible motor clicks when put through this.
More so, you bought the NZXT one...
What fans do you have? The NZXT controllers work by rapidly turning the fans on and off, and some fans will make horrible motor clicks when put through this.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by jamesriley94
You bought a fan controller? /facepalm
More so, you bought the NZXT one... What fans do you have? The NZXT controllers work by rapidly turning the fans on and off, and some fans will make horrible motor clicks when put through this. |
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Resident
Yes. I did, the external LXE that TTL raved about in the review and it'll be running AF120s & a modified Zaward Golf3
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Wasnt me.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by tinytomlogan
Wasnt me.
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Resident
I apologise, I didn't read the Author bit at the top. I just read the main body and it's in similar language to how you speak on the Youtube videos so I put 2 & 2 together, came out with 5 this time.
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Ironsoldier
You're telling me 2+2 isn't 5?
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so i recently put these together, on low and medium speeds u hear a buzz on them. theres no buzz on high. So I contacted coolermaster asking about them and they said that the SP120 fans are not compatible at low speeds. is this true or bs?
sorry to add on. this is the first time i have to deal with fan controller and the rads. the slight hum reminds me of the ac back in taipei but that buzz is really killing me
Quote:
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Originally Posted by coalminer071
so i recently put these together, on low and medium speeds u hear a buzz on them. theres no buzz on high. So I contacted coolermaster asking about them and they said that the SP120 fans are not compatible at low speeds. is this true or bs?
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Some fans will not even start with the cosmos 2 controller on low.....
oh it started for sure.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by coalminer071
so i recently put these together, on low and medium speeds u hear a buzz on them. theres no buzz on high. So I contacted coolermaster asking about them and they said that the SP120 fans are not compatible at low speeds. is this true or bs?
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I also have AF120 quiets on a fan controller (NZXT LXE) and they don't buzz either.
If there is an incompatibility, it's not on the side of the fans.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by coalminer071
so i recently put these together, on low and medium speeds u hear a buzz on them. theres no buzz on high. So I contacted coolermaster asking about them and they said that the SP120 fans are not compatible at low speeds. is this true or bs?
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People here seem to think this is not Corsairs fault, to be honest I don't think it is anyone's fault just a "feature" of the Corsair fans that some other fans don't have (in my experience Scythe GT 1450s). If you buy a decent Fan controller that reduces the Volts instead of sending pulses of 12V current the Corsair fans won't create the noise. But if like me you already had the fan controller it's important that you are aware of this "feature" or you too may be left in a position of
-putting up with the noise
-replacing your fan controller
-using voltage reducers and running at 100%
-leaving your Corsair fans in the cupboard gathering dust (my choice)
Cheers,
Ulijin.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Ulijin
I had the same experience running them off my NZXT Sentry 2. Because it uses 12 Volt pulses it makes noise when you aren't running them at 100% (turning the fan on creates a tick noise). It's debatable whether this is Corsairs fault or NZXT. My solution was to go back to my Scythe 1450 GT's which don't make a noise when attached to my cheapy fan controller.
People here seem to think this is not Corsairs fault, to be honest I don't think it is anyone's fault just a "feature" of the Corsair fans that some other fans don't have (in my experience Scythe GT 1450s). If you buy a decent Fan controller that reduces the Volts instead of sending pulses of 12V current the Corsair fans won't create the noise. But if like me you already had the fan controller it's important that you are aware of this "feature" or you too may be left in a position of -putting up with the noise -replacing your fan controller -using voltage reducers and running at 100% -leaving your Corsair fans in the cupboard gathering dust (my choice) Cheers, Ulijin. |
That's why I recommend everyone on here uses fan speed reducers/voltage resistors and not fan controllers.
There are certain fans that hate the rapidly turning on and off fan controllers - coolermaster, corsair, xigmatek 140mms... Whilst others are absolutely fine.
I have to say the fault is on NZXT's side, just because the fans aren't built to be rapidly turned on and off, and they work fine without the controller don't they...
In the end - it works out cheaper and better to just use 7v/5v fan speed reducers such as:
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...odid=CM-101-BX
Or buy fans that come with adapters to start with such as BeQuiet fans and Silverstone Air Penetrators.
+the corsair ones
Quote:
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Originally Posted by jamesriley94
I had the same problem with the Sentry 2...
That's why I recommend everyone on here uses fan speed reducers/voltage resistors and not fan controllers. There are certain fans that hate the rapidly turning on and off fan controllers - coolermaster, corsair, xigmatek 140mms... Whilst others are absolutely fine. I have to say the fault is on NZXT's side, just because the fans aren't built to be rapidly turned on and off, and they work fine without the controller don't they... In the end - it works out cheaper and better to just use 7v/5v fan speed reducers such as: http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...odid=CM-101-BX Or buy fans that come with adapters to start with such as BeQuiet fans and Silverstone Air Penetrators. +the corsair ones |
The vast majority of the time the 4 fans I have hooked up to the side mesh panel of my 600T are off. Only when I'm gaming with headphones and my GPU's are starting to heat up do I flick the switch on the Sentry to Auto which sets the fans anywhere between 60% to 100%.
I should really just invest in a switch and hook up voltage reducers, but my solution with the Scythes works fine. Also I did find the Corsair AF120 QE's didn't shift much air through the 600T wire mesh (even without a dust filter) another reason I've relegated them to the cupboard.
Anyway it's useful for people to know that this is an issue even if it is NZXTs fault
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We take a look at the new Corsair fans, with different versions for static pressure and case airflow we wonder how good can these really be?
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