Customise your Case with Annodising
Step 10: Water gets rid of any residual acid
Once the part has been anodised, it needs to be thoroughly flushed to remove all residual acid. At this stage of the process the oxide layer is porous, at a molecular level, so soak it for a few minutes in demineralised water, so the acid is dispersed from the chrystalline structure. Demineralised water is the suggested medium, so thats what I used at first, but when it ran out I found that tap water works just as well.
Step 11: Parts take on a milky grey colour during anodisation
You will notice that during the electro-chemical process the anodising part will take on a milky grey appearance as the oxide layer is forming. This look will become even more evident afterwards, when the part has been washed and dried. As mentioned, the anodised layer is very porous at this point, so don't handle it with your bare fingers as this will result in there being "stains" in the final finish.
Step 12: When it comes to dyeing: alfoil bad, plastic good
Time to dye!!! :lol: There are several different products that can be used to colour anodised parts-vegetable based dyes, diluted writing inks, histological dyes and commercial anodising dyes; the latter being used here. The dyes come in powder form and are mixed with demineralised water. To ensure maximum penetration into the chrystalline layer they should be kept at a temperature of 80 Deg C. A word of warning, when left overnight they eat through alfoil containers...use plastic!!!
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