Customise your Case with Annodising

Annodising process

Step 10: Water gets rid of any residual acid
Once the part has been anodised, it needs to be thoroughly flushed to remove all residual acid. At this stage of the process the oxide layer is porous, at a molecular level, so soak it for a few minutes in demineralised water, so the acid is dispersed from the chrystalline structure. Demineralised water is the suggested medium, so thats what I used at first, but when it ran out I found that tap water works just as well.

Step 11: Parts take on a milky grey colour during anodisation
You will notice that during the electro-chemical process the anodising part will take on a milky grey appearance as the oxide layer is forming. This look will become even more evident afterwards, when the part has been washed and dried. As mentioned, the anodised layer is very porous at this point, so don't handle it with your bare fingers as this will result in there being "stains" in the final finish.

Milky grey colour of annodised part shown

Step 12: When it comes to dyeing: alfoil bad, plastic good
Time to dye!!! :lol: There are several different products that can be used to colour anodised parts-vegetable based dyes, diluted writing inks, histological dyes and commercial anodising dyes; the latter being used here. The dyes come in powder form and are mixed with demineralised water. To ensure maximum penetration into the chrystalline layer they should be kept at a temperature of 80 Deg C. A word of warning, when left overnight they eat through alfoil containers...use plastic!!!

Annodised part in dye bath
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Most Recent Comments

15-04-2006, 09:29:35

Kempez
Its a great guide Peevs :)

I'm getting well tempted for a new case but lack of room restricts me at the moment. Once I get some more room then I'll buy a new case and get some annodising done :)

19-04-2006, 11:56:35

FragTek
You're last pic in the first post is of an acid washed Angel, I used to have one just like that with a black and orange wash on it...

Cheers! :D

24-10-2009, 15:39:13

mnpctech
sorry for reviving this old thread, but it's worthy of revisiting :)

24-10-2009, 15:55:51

Coopsman1
That is awesome but acid id something i dont want to play with, local companys tend to do it fairly cheap now adays

24-10-2009, 20:05:56

Drach
Great guide. Had been curious about doing this on a few parts since recently seeing it in a case mod I really liked! :)

25-10-2009, 04:16:55

Socks
isnt there an engineering company that sell a kit for anodising?

25-10-2009, 07:51:59

Marcus
Caswell :)

25-10-2009, 08:20:04

Socks
marcus to the rescue, yet again!! wooop!

25-10-2009, 10:37:49

Coopsman1

Caswell :)



Thanks Marcus!!!

I'm looking into it now

25-10-2009, 12:22:13

Marcus
Here's some more info if you want to have a crack at it at home, it's from an e-mail I got from them a while back RE sourcing suplhuric acid.

Due to health & safety retail outlets cannot supply sulphuric acid in its neat form but can sell a formula for drain cleaning. We have found over the last 5 years that a product called "Oneshot" sold in B&Q, Robert Dyas and other good ironmonger stores is the best formula for our use. It is 91% sulphuric acid and as the colourant and odouriser are both organic, these disappear quickly with use.

To use this product you need measure out 2 litres of deionised water into a plastic container capable of holding 4 or 5 litres and also able to stand reasonable temperature. You would then the 1 litre of Oneshot into the water, NOT the other way round, but do this slowly as it will generate a fair amount of heat. You now have what is termed battery acid. For anodising one part of this acid is poured into two parts of distilled water and you now have an anodising electrolyte.

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