Customise your Case with Annodising
Annodisation process cont...
Step 7: Handy tip
During anodising it is normal to see small bubbles forming on the work-piece, but if any large bubbles form in one spot there is a chance that they will effect the final finish. It may be necessary to stir the solution occasionally or, especially in the case of concave shapes, you could use an aquarium air-pump to continually agitate the acid bath. The wire I've used to suspend components is 0.8mm shaved aluminium MIG welding "rod"...ferrous wire is a definite "not". Step 8: Its all in the timing
The time it takes to anodise a piece depends on several factors including its size, the amperage of the power supply and the required thickness of the oxide layer-the thicker the layer the more durable the finish and the more dense the final colour. The layer of anodising is measured in microns, and to get a very deep colour, especially "absolute black", will require a layer of at least 12 to 15 microns. This is one of the benefits of anodising-you get colour without the surface build-up of paint. Step 9: Developing electrical resistance
When the oxide chrystallises it develops a progressively higher resistance to electrical current, as the anodised surface is a layer of aluminium oxide rather than actual metal. By placing a multi-meter into the circuit you will be able to see the current drop as it occurs. The main point is to ensure a good electrical connection is maintained right throughout the anodising process.
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