Customise your Case with Annodising

Annodisation process cont...

Step 7: Handy tip
During anodising it is normal to see small bubbles forming on the work-piece, but if any large bubbles form in one spot there is a chance that they will effect the final finish. It may be necessary to stir the solution occasionally or, especially in the case of concave shapes, you could use an aquarium air-pump to continually agitate the acid bath. The wire I've used to suspend components is 0.8mm shaved aluminium MIG welding "rod"...ferrous wire is a definite "not".

Step 8: Its all in the timing
The time it takes to anodise a piece depends on several factors including its size, the amperage of the power supply and the required thickness of the oxide layer-the thicker the layer the more durable the finish and the more dense the final colour. The layer of anodising is measured in microns, and to get a very deep colour, especially "absolute black", will require a layer of at least 12 to 15 microns. This is one of the benefits of anodising-you get colour without the surface build-up of paint.

Step 9: Developing electrical resistance
When the oxide chrystallises it develops a progressively higher resistance to electrical current, as the anodised surface is a layer of aluminium oxide rather than actual metal. By placing a multi-meter into the circuit you will be able to see the current drop as it occurs. The main point is to ensure a good electrical connection is maintained right throughout the anodising process.

Checking for electrical resistance
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Most Recent Comments

15-04-2006, 09:29:35

Its a great guide Peevs :)

I'm getting well tempted for a new case but lack of room restricts me at the moment. Once I get some more room then I'll buy a new case and get some annodising done :)

19-04-2006, 11:56:35

You're last pic in the first post is of an acid washed Angel, I used to have one just like that with a black and orange wash on it...

Cheers! :D

24-10-2009, 15:39:13

sorry for reviving this old thread, but it's worthy of revisiting :)

24-10-2009, 15:55:51

That is awesome but acid id something i dont want to play with, local companys tend to do it fairly cheap now adays

24-10-2009, 20:05:56

Great guide. Had been curious about doing this on a few parts since recently seeing it in a case mod I really liked! :)

25-10-2009, 04:16:55

isnt there an engineering company that sell a kit for anodising?

25-10-2009, 07:51:59

Caswell :)

25-10-2009, 08:20:04

marcus to the rescue, yet again!! wooop!

25-10-2009, 10:37:49


Caswell :)

Thanks Marcus!!!

I'm looking into it now

25-10-2009, 12:22:13

Here's some more info if you want to have a crack at it at home, it's from an e-mail I got from them a while back RE sourcing suplhuric acid.

Due to health & safety retail outlets cannot supply sulphuric acid in its neat form but can sell a formula for drain cleaning. We have found over the last 5 years that a product called "Oneshot" sold in B&Q, Robert Dyas and other good ironmonger stores is the best formula for our use. It is 91% sulphuric acid and as the colourant and odouriser are both organic, these disappear quickly with use.

To use this product you need measure out 2 litres of deionised water into a plastic container capable of holding 4 or 5 litres and also able to stand reasonable temperature. You would then the 1 litre of Oneshot into the water, NOT the other way round, but do this slowly as it will generate a fair amount of heat. You now have what is termed battery acid. For anodising one part of this acid is poured into two parts of distilled water and you now have an anodising electrolyte.


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