Customise your Case with Annodising

Annodisation process

Published: 13th April 2006 | Source: Overclock3D | Author: Matthew Fogg

Step 4: Positive and negative connections

Hook up the lead plates with a length of 30A wire, using spade connectors under the external nuts. This is the cathode pole, and will be connected to the battery charger's (or suitable 12V DC power suppliy's) negative lead. The aluminium bar across the tank is the anode pole, and is attached to the positive connection. As mentioned previously, everything in the tank should be either aluminium or lead, and external connections should be copper to avoid sparks from arcing.

Step 5: A potentially explosive situation

When the tank is connected and working correctly, there will be a "sheet" of hydrogen bubbles generated across the lead sheet by the electrolysis action. With good ventilation this is not a major issue, but if it occurs in a confined space then the build-up of highly flammable hydrogen gas over several hours is an explosive situation. Especially if the explosion then sprays sulphuric acid all over the place...so there are a few rules worth following.

Step 6: Prepare the aluminium for treatment

With the tank constructed the next step is to prepare the aluminium for treatment. If the components are in a clean, non-corroded condition then they can be anodised without any pre-treatment - if not, then a caustic solution of Sodium Hydroxide (drain cleaner) at about 15% WW can be used as a dip to brighten the metal. A word of warning...Acids and alkalis to not mix well, keep them well seperated!

Most Recent Comments

15-04-2006, 09:29:35

Kempez

Its a great guide Peevs :)

I'm getting well tempted for a new case but lack of room restricts me at the moment. Once I get some more room then I'll buy a new case and get some annodising done :)

19-04-2006, 11:56:35

FragTek

You're last pic in the first post is of an acid washed Angel, I used to have one just like that with a black and orange wash on it...

Cheers! :D

24-10-2009, 15:39:13

mnpctech

sorry for reviving this old thread, but it's worthy of revisiting :)

24-10-2009, 15:55:51

Coopsman1

That is awesome but acid id something i dont want to play with, local companys tend to do it fairly cheap now adays

24-10-2009, 20:05:56

Drach

Great guide. Had been curious about doing this on a few parts since recently seeing it in a case mod I really liked! :)

25-10-2009, 04:16:55

Socks

isnt there an engineering company that sell a kit for anodising?

25-10-2009, 07:51:59

Marcus

Caswell :)

25-10-2009, 08:20:04

Socks

marcus to the rescue, yet again!! wooop!

25-10-2009, 10:37:49

Coopsman1

Caswell :)

Thanks Marcus!!!

I'm looking into it now

25-10-2009, 12:22:13

Marcus

Here's some more info if you want to have a crack at it at home, it's from an e-mail I got from them a while back RE sourcing suplhuric acid.

Due to health & safety retail outlets cannot supply sulphuric acid in its neat form but can sell a formula for drain cleaning. We have found over the last 5 years that a product called "Oneshot" sold in B&Q, Robert Dyas and other good ironmonger stores is the best formula for our use. It is 91% sulphuric acid and as the colourant and odouriser are both organic, these disappear quickly with use.

To use this product you need measure out 2 litres of deionised water into a plastic container capable of holding 4 or 5 litres and also able to stand reasonable temperature. You would then the 1 litre of Oneshot into the water, NOT the other way round, but do this slowly as it will generate a fair amount of heat. You now have what is termed battery acid. For anodising one part of this acid is poured into two parts of distilled water and you now have an anodising electrolyte.

Customise your Case with Annodising

Annodisation process

Published: 13th April 2006 | Source: Overclock3D | Author: Matthew Fogg

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